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you laugh, but there's literally a tuning technique called "The hammer mod". You literally loosen 2 bolts, and hit the pump with a hammer!! End result is a bit more fuel across the rev range, without needing a remap

get confirmation of when BOTH cambelts were swapped - and if over 100k, then idler and tensioner bearings too. Make sure it starts within a couple of turns, as it otherwise points to either an air leak on the lines, or if it also starts with a cloud of white smoke, then incorrect pump timing...

L series is easy to tune, and will do starship miles. Far less electronics, injectors aren't considered a service item, and can be treated like a $5 hooker, and will still remain faithful. Yes, gutless as stock, but physically stronger than a TD04 by a clear mile.

for some reason... I thought I saw that on the FB group. Much easier to read+reference on a "proper" website :D

This configuration would only ever be for a "4x4 boost", so slightly improving takeoff/etc. Turns out Land Rover actually made this exact setup as a concept, lol

that's the general type of answer most of my ideas get tbh, lol

Getting daft ideas about converting a Hippo into a hybrid... Replace the VCU with a large electric motor (of forklift origins) propshaft to the rear as standard. Throw out the standard gearbox, and replace with a FWD PG1, to help offset a bit of the weight, and give more space. Control method...

Not directly - but you can get torque limiter type things. They look like an extension bar, but they're designed to twist and cancel out the hammer effect after a certain torque. Slap on the correct extension, and you can sit on the trigger until the compressor fails - it'll never go any...

The lighter socket is "accessory" live - so switches off when cranking ;)

Going to have to assume most of your points - as your grammar and spelling are atrocious (spell check is standard on all browsers now, so no excuses on that front) For the battery, if you're going to allow it to mostly discharge, then get yourself a leisure battery. It'll cost a little bit more...

Getting the idea of making a full steel nudge/winch/bull bar setup for my next FL1, and looking for a bit of inspiration. The whole shebang will be 4mm steel, CNC plasma cut, and welded together by a professional (I've seen the welding, and it's 10x nicer than mine!) So not chopped about with a...

Wait, I thought you had a freelander? lol EKA code can be had relatively cheap from people with the right kit - wasn't aware the hippo had one, but does make sense as other Rovers of the same age use the EKA system too

Gel's correct, immo, fobs, and ECU, are a matched set unfortunately. Quite costly to get re-matched too (unless you know someone with a T4 machine to recode it for beer tokens)

pop open the keyfob again, and check the 3 solder points that hold the battery clip in place, and the solder points on the buttons. These often crack, and need reflowing (just heat them up with a soldering iron, and a tiny blob of solder)

To summarise all the other threads what *will* fit: K series L series TD04 what *could* fit: anything

On mine, it's always been a case of gently pull, and they fall out :)

doing that should ensure it's being fed nicely - the next thing to really do, is remove the drain, and make sure it's not being restricted with gunge. Not the nicest of jobs I'm afraid

as above - swap the battery in the fob. But get a decent brand in there, otherwise you'll just be changing it in a few months again

If it's an L series turbo, I've got a nearly-new one I've taken off my hippo if it's of use? Was only on for <3000 miles

To anyone who knows an iota about mapping reading that, will take that if they claim a tuning box is better than a remap, then they're toss at remaps... end of