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check the wiring for the TPS - most likely chafed through or damaged. The sensors themselves are nearly as tough as the engine, so is exceptionally rare for them to fail in this manner.

We demand pics!! :D

Less than 6 months - but it was hardly a shining example, and it was the clutch that shat itself (it was already dying, release point was on the floor, even with new and fully bled hydraulics) Was cheaper to just buy another car than get it home and repaired

The EVRY mod was in fact the brainchild of one of the fellas who apparently helped develop the pump control system - it's called the EVRY mod, as it was part of his forum name :) As for extra poke - shove in the SDi injectors, and the EVRY mod. For 99% of hippo drivers, it's the only mods...

Then pull your finger out, make it 30 hours in a day, and get the zr running! Nearly tripped over those thermal spacers just now too. Need to drop them off at yours

With the right conditions, you could happily "tow" a 40 ton trailer.... but that doesn't mean it's within the legal rating of the car, or your licence ;)

None taken - barely been using them for a few weeks... I did wonder why the smell wouldn't leave

That's a lie... you think I'm a poopy bum head, who smells of cabbage :p

Sat to one side - as I picked up that HX55 to turn into a supercharger..... but then life happened, and I couldn't afford to build it, lol. No space to justify it on the 75, so just throwing on the vnt, and calling it a day with regards forced induction on this one. The injectors do make a...

No need for fisticuffs - research can either show you part of the picture, the full picture, or sometimes entirely wrong information. Sometimes there's no way to tell which one you're heading down, until you're balls deep. As for the Nerf - I've gone as far as a standard Nerf can go. And it's...

Freelander injectors have a smaller nozzle orifice size vs SDi injectors (don't have the numbers to hand) and a few of us have tried it, and the increase in smoke and performance is noticeable. Similarly, fitting them to a VP30 pumped L series (25/45/ZR/ZS) shows less power vs SDi injectors. To...

Early L series hippo, converted to a mechanical VE pump

Nope, the boost pressure sensor, is the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) But according to an old version of Autodata - the pin is number 23, (on one of the 3 big plugs) so happy days :) And the little monster's been puking most nights... alllllll over me, lol

Hey guys - got a request. Has anyone got a wiring diagram that includes the N75 valve on a TD4? I've been trying to get the "correct" RAVE to have a peek (the joy of 1mb internet, and 500mb+ files!), but the only one I've been able to finally open, doesn't show it. If anyone could have a peek...

across wires 6 and 7 on the pump :)

VP30 pumps are only used on the late spec Rovers/MGs. The Freelander only ever had a VP37 (which, is different to the Rover VP37 too)

both will fit fine - the Paddocks one is a "late spec" cover. The extra bulge accounts for a larger pump pulley on VP30 powered L series lumps. If you really want the early type, try looking for people breaking Rover 220's, 420's, and 620's. But otherwise, fit and forget

no idea about the TD4, but the L series, once lightly modded, can get to a max of about 105mph... well into the redline, and lots of strain on the VCU If you want a fast car, get something else

PG1 would be a doddle (once removed) to convert to cable, as it just means fitting a cable operated arm off, say, a Rover 25 PG1. However.. the clutch pedal would be useless, as it's only set up to PUSH, not PULL, which the cable setup requires. Then there's the fact that the freelander places...

As above, let the fuel pump do the hard work. Short out the fuel relay, disconnect the relevant pipe in the engine bay, and pump it straight into a fuel can