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All of the clutch system on my 2005 TD4 is being replaced this week. £1700 to include all the hydraulics from pedal to plate, Bimass flywheel INCLUDING labour. All LUK parts. I am at just over 200,000 miles and I reasoned the following; the engines purrs and is serviced regularly. Last...

To anneal copper you should heat to a DULL cherry red and quench immediately in COLD water. Copper work hardens and becomes brittle. So for sheet copper work where you bend and shape it, thereby deforming beyond the elastic limit of the material, the annealing process is invaluable to prevent...

Also lubricants absorb moisture from the air (they're hydroscopic like hydraulic fluid) increasing something called TAN (total acid number). This then "encourages" the lubricant to attack any brass in the bearing, sometimes in the bearing cage. This leads to failure by leaching the zinc out of...

Earlier this year, summertime, stuck in Austria with a failed alternator on my TD4, I was forced to use a Bosch Service centre to get it changed. Great service centre that specialises in injectors. The curious thing is that after a new Bosch alternator, I started having starting problems. The...

Thanks Andy!!

Do any of you know the LR standard time for a TD4 manual transmission clutch change including the pedal and slave cylinder etc? I searched but cannot find a definitive answer. Thanks in advance and I send my compliments of the season to you all ✌🏻

I removed the OEM thermostat and replaced the O-ring. It required ingenuity with adapters and a full range of spanners and sockets. Before I put the housing back in place, I took new stainless hex fasteners, ground grooves in their theads in the first 2 or 3 thread forms, some WD40 or similar...

I had this happen on my TD4 this year while travelling between France and Hungary. At first I thought a wheel balance issue. It became progressively worse but also with an intermittence. The driveshaft UJ bearings were coming to the end of their life. The rear UJ was almost falling apart...

FOR INFO - The removal, full overhaul of all propshaft joints, bearings and carriers took 4 hours. A further 2 hours to change the front RHS inner driveshaft boot which had split. Thanks all!

Grrrr, rear UJ failed (badly) as well as the propshaft carrier bearings... and rear diff seal too!! Diff supports are serviceable still; the rear wetted from the leaking diff seal. UJ failed video rear bearing carrier video - front is the same The VCU looks like it was replaced prior to me...

Thank you, your point on the front diff support is a useful reminder!! In fact the cost of front and rear diff supports are so low, I think I will instruct new ones all around! I am about to get underneath and look at the rubbers. Fortunately I have no knocking. Gear changing is super smooth...

Hello all I am stranded in Austria, sort of... (I am taking a few months relaxation here; well that WAS the idea until... :rolleyes: ) I travelled 4000km plus last week returning to the Innsbruck area but in quite a remote location nevertheless. FL1 TD4 2005 manual (275,000km) ran very well...

RAVE - Repairs 76-6-7 is my answer. Sorry for the noise.

Hello friends. Can anyone tell me where the sunroof drain tubes exit please? A picture or diagram would be appreciated if you have one or a link. I have to overhaul the roof, it's corroded badly but to help stop any further ingress of water to the cabin, I thought I might try to gently blow...

I just encountered this issue and have used a wing nut, anti-vibration washer and a minimal dab of blue thread lock over and above @Nodge68 approach. Hopefully, should anyone other than me have need to remove or change the battery, there will be less likely to have someone use a "gun" to...

Join the MM facebook group. You will be able to see all of the information you need there. Link is here: - MuddyMods FB page for floppy linkage solution The floppy linkage on my 2003 TD4 was because of the bush (which is part of the gear selector) on top of the gearbox. It is not available...

@Nodge68 - yes there is a slight buzz, the refinement of the damper on the steering wheel is worth having, I agree

Normal @FrogWithLand - j’ai 63 et 0,5 avec Generali. Je pense 450€ après remise est chère. I’m 63 and 50% NCD with Generali. I think 450€ after discount is expensive.

That sounds interesting and competitive, especially if it includes European recovery. I’ll look them up. Thanks.

Just for information on the cables, mine was held in place by 2 (two) strands of the untrusted bowden cable with a genuine LR regulator; incredible. How it ever lowered the glass and returned it to fully up when opening and closing the tailgate is beyond belief. I had a near miss. I must get...