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Ive just read your battery thread. It's normal for a battery to read approx 12.6v fully charged. This will drop to around 10v during cold cranking but there is room for scope depending on variations in load and battery temperature. Your reading of 9.6v cranking just before the battery died...

Yes you might have to bite the bullet and change the rail sensor. If it stops on you again try and have a fiddle with that before touching anything else. If it then starts at least you'll be confirming that that's the issue. The ecu can't fuel the engine correctly without an accurate and...

Which pump are you hitting? what age is the Td4, it may have more than one Lp pump? can you hear it/them running when ignition is first tuned on?

Reading your account it's difficult to say 100% whether it's an electrical issue or fuel pressure/delivery. I agree with the need to re-check the rail sensor connection. It would of been worth fiddling with this when the non start occurred rather than going straight for the use of the...

I think he's gone off line for tonight marky.......

Any air ends up in the return line. What's the problem???

Simple enough, Lp pump/s supplies fuel to the Hp pump and rail and excess is returned to the supply line via a relief valve. Wouldn't you be better posting a single thread with your problem rather than so many separate threads?

It's a redundant fixing hole, just leave it or stick some tape over it if you want.

no air pressure in there, the filter being before turbo.

The readings look normal to me. Boost readings seems normal for a no load stationary engine. IAT sensor readings are correct as no flow through intercooler. Around about 13g/s from the Maf at idle (or around 500-510 mg/st. but some scope for variation according to slight idle speed...

S, 100kpa intake pressure is correct, it being absolute pressure ie, normal atmospheric pressure no boost.

TBH I think it would be better to replace it if you believe it to be faulty. They're a bit too delicate to be poking anything into it to clean. You could try spraying with brake cleaner perhaps.....

Diverting crankcase emissions should be ok as a to test if that is the source of the oil causing the smoking but not about the regulations to permanently discharge those emissions to atmosphere.

No idea. It would depend on ability to compress the valve spring enough at TDC. It's not something I would attempt, it's better to remove and check/overhaul complete cyl head.

:D:D you should start a poll.

This thread is going round in circles, there are a number of you with the same problem and all external checks have proved fruitless. Since there is only one claim of a cure ie, the cylinder head overhaul, it looks like one of you is going to have to get on and try it.

If you know the injection pump then follow it's harness and you'll see where it connects to the rest of the loom via a black plug. Often if you fiddle with this plug and wires with the engine running you can get a fault to occur which will obviously indicate a connection issue. At the very least...

Definitely bull****, like I say the maf does nothing for fuelling on the L series freelanders unlike on the later L series Rover cars that use a different pump. Most faults like you describe are a result of bad connections in the pump harness.

i'm sure he'll suggest a synergy VP, you won't be disappointed especially at that price. The turbo can be tweaked for more boost too!

If your looking for more power/torque Ron has Synergy VP's (for L series freelander) on offer at a bargain price.