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Haha there is always one ……… Ashcroft was my first thought but looking at them non of them look the same

Can anyone identify this diff been told it’s a 4pin 24 spline ATB/LSD can anyone verify that?

Into a D2 managed to get it revving but engine is stuttering on rev I’ve got a leak on the pressure regulator could that be drawing air in you think ?

I’ve put a NNN ecu to my 10p pre facelift as the original ecu got water damage I know I have to get it mapped eventually but for now I just want to get it to rev what settings do I need to change to get the engine to rev??

I’m working on it but that’s a whole other problem lol

Hi Long story short I got a load of diesel in my block and I cranked it. It only turned on the starter for a second before locking up. I guess my question is could I have damaged the engine with just the starter. Since then I have had it running on easy start for about 10 seconds( I have a fuel...

What is that mate I’ve searched that code up and can’t find anything on it ?

Well I know it was working 100% the day I re wired in the leds so it’s something I’ve done. But that might be a idea id I really can’t find the issue

Yeah I wish I had just put a td5 into a d1 would have been much easier lol . I’ve ordered the resistors and if I do re wire the bcu I will post the results in here.

It’s a 99

It’s a it’s a 99

I haven’t put a resistor or anything wasn’t aware I had to all the led headlights work. What type of resistor do I need ? And basically all I have done so far to the loom is cut all the earths from the rear half of the car and re ran them into a bus bar. I want to cut out all the unnecessary...

Yeah leds . passenger side works half the time driver side never works. Headlights work fine just the indicators that don’t. If I can bypass the bcu and keep abs then I will definitely do that

Only reason really I want to keep the bcu is because of traction control. And it will be road registered so I need everything for mot too

Any recommendations on good quality spay connectors too

Coming towards the end of my d2 td5 challenge truck build and it’s come to the electrics now and I’m struggling big time. I have about a million questions but I guess my biggest one is can you simplify the body loom on a d2 removing stuff like electric Roofs ect. Or will the confuse the bcu ...

Oh yeah I’m aware an off the shelf vnt would be far better that anything I can do just want a challenge. Anyone done any td5 mapping at home I’ve got a nanocom and a nnn to go in. I’m not all that good on computers is the only problem.

What’s the benefit of the actuator and boost controller just adjusting? I know basically nothing about td5 turning I’ve only ever done it on a tdi and obviously it’s much easier due to the lack of ECU