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Two threads of mine from earlier this year, have a read, lots of info and similar story to yours. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/gearbox-removal-disco-1-a-68746.html http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/disco-1-gearbox-update-68919.html

bit more, there are two bolts from the front side too and also remove the gearbox output gear first, bit fiddly but possible.

As above, yes I agree but I would also remove the engine fan thus allowing you to drop the rear of the gearbox a little to give more flexibility. I did this job recently, its not too bad at all, one tip i got from this forum, fit a piece of all thread into one of the bolt holes, about a foot...

Its possibly a Polish car wash attendant working away and enjoying himself... :D Could be many things seriously, alternator bearings, belt tensioner bearing, water pump.. try the old dodge of listening using a long screw driver pressed against your ear ant touching metalwork near to the...

Fraid you got three choices:- Live with it, Recon box, Strip it yourself and look. My first S3 did the same but in first, a few quid spent soon fixed it. Its a few years ago, i cant remember exactly what i bought, but It wasnt expensive at all, just time consuming.

To maintain the Current wiring there are Ample diagrams in the Haynes manual...:lol:

Yep. I looked at the document today and discussed it with the tester while he was doing my Disco, Electrics aren't mentioned at all, it just appears to be basic security and common sense, correct materials and bolts etc, visually only. They wont remove plastic ball covers either. I asked...

I agree, my old classic was on gas. The power loss was minimal although for trials I used it on petrol, slightly better bottom end tourqe... Road use, LPG only.. (Thats the mustard colored Classic in the pic)

IT PASSED :D:D:D:D:D Just advisory on the boot floor and one sill, jobs for the coming year...

I'll write my list tomorrow, AFTER the MOT fail... Oh Sean, my missus agrees with you, CLEAN IT...

A MIG welder and a Haynes Manual, LOL

Yes its copper/brass, I guess it would be cheaper and Leicester isnt far at all. I could bring it by car, cold, so that would speed it up too. Gotto sort the MOT first tho, LOL Thanks so much for looking...

WOW, thanks for the offer. Is it logistically practical tho... where are you? be good to go that way if it's economically a better option. As i said, not urgent, MOT tomorrow so I'll be looking at the fail sheet before i get to the Rad, LOL

I hesitated before answering this because my method will be shouted down by some on here I think. I would take the wheel off, then take off the bottom swivel pivot, let it drain and refit. there's no need to get all the oil out, but fill it with grease anyway. buy the pre measured sachet from...

According to that they are all different, but i'd like to know "how" different. I'm still tempted to try and fit a 300TDi matrix. Good point about the new price tho....

here here Sean.. I was just out of my apprenticeship when Maggie came to power, I know how her policies hurt the working people, and the subsequent Tory governments that systematically raped us. Under Labour this country thrived, Blair made mistakes as anyone can but on the whole he was OK...

The discovery radiator is assembled into a module along with the intercooler. When you try to buy the whole pack its megabucks, but its easy to open up and seperate the radiator from the intercooler. My question is "does anyone know if other radiators, ie 300 TDi of defender 200 rads will fit...

yeah, drain it and fill it with grease... ( the swivel)

Tekaloid is great, brush paint it carefuly and it looks great. I did one of my 109's this way and i found a shade as near as damn the same as the LR green. Jawel Paints in Wolverhampton...

I'm gonna need a radiator soon for my Disco 200 TDi, can anyone tell me, once I open up the frame with the intercooler, is the water matrix the same as other 200Tdi's (Defender) and what about 300 TDi's. I'm lookin on ebay at the moment and don't want to buy one that wont fit.. I'm sure...