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Its a 97 plate

I have the RF arial disconnected, its a brand new battery and its flat in two days, there must be a drain somewhere, I just need to find it and isolate it.

Sorry, I didn't mean to question your expertise, I'm on a steep learning curve, just trying to get a handle on things... now off to figure out which cct to pull to kill the switch.

is it really that easy? Wont the system be looking for a closed cct?

I'm going to try to track down my battery drain parasite circuit, but to do so I need to have the vehicle think the bonnet is closed, so I can pull fuses out of the fuse box with a multi-meter attached to the battery. Anyone know how to fool it , or a way to clamp the bonnet switch down?

Yup, tried everything, it might be a temp sensor fault, or the HEVAC.

Nope, officially not a nugget, the fans NEVER come on. So, I've ruled out fuses, relays, fuse box, next is to whip out a plug from the in-situ blower that I can access, and plug it into one of the two fans I got that do work, and see what happens.

Oh boy, so... in summary, if the vehicle is cold (engine not running), or if its only just started, the fans wont come on despite me twiddling the fan speed knob... at least, until it gets warmer? I feel like a complete muppet now, so I should go out and run the engine for a while, see what...

Mine worked sometimes, and then didn't, and now they don't work at all. I've got a couple of blowers coming (known workers), and I can access the one under the steering wheel, so I'll swap that one and see how it goes, if it doesn't work my next port of call is the HEVAC unit.

Well, I think I'm out of my depth now. Got access to the r/h blower, was going to take both out to test relay and transistors, but cant get the l/h one out as the glove box catch is knackered in some way, tried accessing the three screws as advised to get the glove box to open, and... it...

Yup, taught myself how to use a multimeter, and then stripped, cleaned, and tested the relays, all good there, just had a heads up on the multi-plug for the main blower power feed located behind the kick-panel in the footwell, apparently these can get corroded and fail, looks like I'm going to...

And if they don't work at all, like mine?

Ok, I may have solved the problem more simply, just found blowers for £15 each inc P&P, told them to send me two, I'll swap them, and then set about testing the crap out of the old ones in the comfort of my kitchen when I have time, if I find faults with transistors etc I'll buy new, refurb the...

EDIT - can't see, not can

So, do you buy the parts first, and then hold them or re-sell them if it turns out to be something else, or take the blower fans out first, clean the relay and see if that works before buying the transistors? I was just asking about testing as I can see all 4 (2 on each blower fan) being duff at...

Just looked at pics of the transistors and they seem to be two pin, although they are listed as being PNP's (three pin?), how do I test them, is the metal case the third pin?

Well, its not the relays, found an Ohms meter and taught myself how to use it (good old you tube lol), took the relays apart, cleaned them, and then checked them on the meter, working fine, guess its time to take the blower motors out.... Saturday better be dry!

First lane on Sunday, looking forward to finally seeing how the Tank does off-road.

The two on their roofs, did they loop them (end over end), or roll them (sideways)?

No more from this neck of the woods then?