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My drivers lock has just stopped working. There is no resistance when using the key. I can't lock it or unlock it from the outside but it locks fine from the inside. My door latches are simple military type ones. I don't know if the normal style ones are the same, maybe with pushrods added...

My bearmach wheelboxes lasted a year before one of the gears fell off. I welded it back on. The next time I'm in there will be to fit oem ones.

Isn't that how they came out of the factory?

You need a new wheelbox or to weld the gear back onto the spindle. It's just the top of the dash that needs to come out.

Thsnks for the reply. Do you recommend fitting it dry James? The WSM recommends some sealant I've never heard of.

Is a smear of hylomar blue ok as a sealant on the threads or threadlock please? Or something else...

Is this a mechanical or electronic pressure gauge? Also, how has it been connected? Assuming this is a 200tdi, 10 psi is too low. Should be at least 20 but check the WSM for specs.

Thanks James.

I'm currently rebuilding an LT230 and just wanted to add that it's possible to knock the input bearings out with a punch/chisel. New OE bearings are £15 each. Not sure about the diff bearings as I've not touched then. James, is it possible to fit new bearings to the input gear without a press...

Are you thinking of the handbrake bracket? It's used for the rod actuated drums. Discovery handbrake is fully cable operated.

The 30mm bolt is no bother to loosen on bench by jamming the prop nuts with a bar and using a socket. This technique is demonstrated by land rover toolbox videos on YouTube on his excellent rebuild videos.

For my next problem, I'm just going to post that I've solved it and wait for everyone to come along and tell me a better way to do it and that I did it all wrong. :) :p

It's nice everyone's so keen to help though :) Would have been better to have got the advice whilst I was still trying to fix it like :) But I'm grateful all the same and it will help someone in the future.

I'm getting the impression nobody read my earlier post:

Well that was a bit silly. Resumed my war with the brake tonight and then noticed the two screwheads either side of the adjuster. Unbolted them which allowed the shoes, adjuster and handbrake link to come away as one with the drum. Very simple. Brains over braun. Wish I had noticed them...

It's not in the landy. I've removed the one in situ a few times without drama.

I've gone way past the rubber mallet stage. I've been beating the crap out of it with a lump hammer. I'm not bothered about keeping this drum as it's rod operated. I have another which is cable operated, so I can swap the bits around.

I've applied a great deal of both. The only other thing I can think to do is soak the shoes in penetrating fluid to help them slide.

This won't come off. I can get it to the end of the prop shaft bolts but one shoe appears to be sticking and has jammed at an angle. Prior to attempting removal I backed off the adjuster and the drum rotates freely. Even when I return the drum to its fully seated position, it's now locked solid.

Thanks Sue. I've been on one of your trips before and it was great! I'll mosey on over to Facebook.