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His site is under construction, what sort of price?

Hiya Peeps! Working through the jobs on my project P38, noticed someone had been into the rear driver's side parcel shelf. Had a peak and the RF receiver is missing, the wiring is there but no box? As the driver's door handle had broken (new one on it's way) and the main key was a bit worse for...

Yerp, that's my feeling on the subject. Some might say it's not the proper way but it is how the P38 should have been designed and most owners have done at least one modification... cooling, electrics, tunning, suspension.... etc.. etc.. so it is hard to be a purist P38 owner?

These days I think we all know a Stephanie? My Stephanie is a 6'4" ex RM commando and a dress isn't really enough to stop you imagining him/her storming a machine gun emplacement, each to their own.

All the working out must have paid off? Surprised how light the seat was, out and back in no problems, much better than playing "will it won't it drop" with the tank. I think failed pump and leaking rusty connections more likely than filler pipe issues, when I am stood in a puddle of diesel at...

Way easier with the seat out, don't know why I didn't start with that? Nice easy job while drinking a cuppa and working from above.

Don't call me Shirley!

It is a poor design, cutting a panel is an upgrade.

I would recommend removing the seats, bit like digging an escape tunnel then realising your still four feet from the wall as the calculations are a bit off. The schematics given don't allow for rusted connectors if you still have the original pump so you end up being an inch short for access and...

I ended up just removing the seat from the bracket.

You can do it with seats in place but it is easier with them removed and I have made a better job as the fuel line connectors where rusted solid, more room to repair. It's a case of do it and you will realise how much easier with seat removed.

As the Guru of all things P38, how the feck do I get the back seats out? Doing the fuel pump today and after some cutting I think I could make a cleaner job with the two seater out. I have assumed it was two torx 40 bolts to body and then slide back with the front of the hinge in a bracket?

Yep, knew you were going to 3D the pull handle, not sure why as these seem readily available, fleabay is alright but more parts etc.. on dreaded fb marketplace and owners sites, probably just need a good and bad one to compare them and points of wear?

Is that scanning the cam? I would guess that the material used to make a cam is the important consideration? I have just replaced all the headlight adjusters on my In-laws Jag as the old ones have broken, used a kit with "lifetime guarantee" and different material. When I removed the old ones...

Somewhere in the house is the disc, it arrived and Wifey promptly tidied it never to be seen again!

Did you send me a P38 workshop cdrom couple of years a go?

Yep, thought that might be the route. Can't remember but did you send me a workshop cd rom a few years back? It is strange that all the handles with locks are missing that piece, grey flat topped with tab which connect rod goes into? Will pull the lock a part for looksee?

Off topic question? Have you had to sort faded external weather trim, the waist strips and rear window surrounds? Thought I could bring them back with heat but they look as if painted from factory?

Might all be academic as I can't find a handle for sale with that part on it? It must just be a push fit and left on the connecting rod when peeps dismantle them? My usual P38 breaker in Lincoln has moved on to L322. Will stick a "want" on here?

Did you cut just enough to tease the pin out?