Search results

Had this last year with a Discovery II. My mechanic changed the injector seals and it's been fine since.

Hey, I have a 300tdi thats been sat for a little over a year. I have a new battery, changed the oil,coolant and filters and am planning on getting it running again soon. I'm wondering with it being sat for so long is there anything I need to be aware of or anything else I can do that will help...

I scanned the instructions that came with my heated screen from paddocks ( with the red bison electrics ) and have attached them to this message. Hope it helps

Checked your propshafts are in good order? Also might be worth checking the handbrake is rotating freely.

Does it happen when you let your foot off the accelerator when traveling at speed? Clunking/bumping at the rear could be the a-frame ball joint.

Sorry for the dumb questions but I just want to make sure - I need to take the two brown wires off my old starter, and put them in place of this one on the 300tdi and wire them straight up to the original loom? Thanks

So if I understand corectly, I can remove this without issue?

Thanks for the replies guys Yes the cable with the battery terminal on it is hooked up and goes into the battery box. The thing is, since the loom was left in place when the engine was taken out, there would be no reason to disconnect this one cable form the alternator. I haven't tried but I...

Hi guys, I'm doing a 300tdi conversion and am starting on the electrics. Fortunately the engine loom was left in place by the previous owner. Looking at the starter motor I have a short, thick wire coming off with a ring terminal on it. I'm not sure what this is, could anyone help me? Thanks

I use 30mm spacers on my 1989 90 with drums on the rear. You need to fit them all round. Without them my wheel nuts kept coming loose ( one even fell off while reversing out my drive ). With spacers fitted I haven't had a problem.

Just overhauled my swivels yesterday. I also have the early type with railko bush top and taper bearing bottom. The top pin slotted easily into the bush. Using a drift doesn't sound right. Theres lots of different figures out there for preload. In the end I went with 5kg with the seal...

Are gear changes becoming more difficult? With the engine off can you select all the gears easily? Sounds like it could be air in the clutch which is a simple fix.

Td5 90 complete rear A frame Fulcrum or 575616 | UPPER LINK MOUNT. BRACKET LH | Land Rover | Defender 1983 To 2006 | Britcar (UK) Ltd this for £240!

What amazes me is the size difference. That bonnet would be over my head, would need a step ladder to get into it.

I wouldn't recommend buying a press to do the bushes. Ones good enough to get bushes in/out are expensive and wouldn't get used enough to justify the cost. You can have a mechanic do them for you or use polybushes.

Bushes can be tricky if they are OE as these need a big press to get them in. Poly bushes require no special tools, just a decent socket set/long bar/vice. Go over to Busters photo repair section on this forum to see how easy it can be.

I wouldn't pay a mechanic to do the bold items. -RTC36352 BULB DASH LIGHTS 90/110 £1.43 £0.41 £0.8220 -NRC7704G1 UJ STEERING SHAFT RR, LOWER 90/110 £44.63 £25.00 £25.0020 -NRC7387G1 UJ STEERING SHAFT 90/110 UPPER/DIS L £45.84 £20.00 £20.0020 -ANR3410G2 PANHARD ROD BUSH ALL MODELS POST 8 £7.97...

Sorry to say but all that bling on a pre 90's defender(going by your other thread) that will see "it's fair share of mud and dents" makes no practical or financial sense. Save the thousands of pounds you would spend on bling and put it towards a decent td5.

Could it be the thermostat?

Have you checked there is no air in the system?