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Hi @sierrafery , just to be clear, you measure de 14V in which wire? BG or BW? As soon as i arrive home this afternoon i will measure as well on my car.

Hi, @sierrafery thanks for the update. You mean that this 14V are in the plug of the clutch switch right? Mine have nothing... Now, need to understand from where comes this 14V. I don't know if this is a broken wire or any function deactivated somewhere... Any clue from you? Thanks for all...

Ok, understood. I can try only tomorrow afternoon. So for my understanding, this 12V from pin 35 then goes to the plug from clutch sensor? and if pedal pressed goes to BCU? this means that if ECU are with plugs connected in some point i should have 12V on sensor plug?

The plugs were disconnected from ECU.. I dont know if the ECU is original since i bought the car 3 years ago. i don't have access to vehicle history. Clutch sensor is connected to its plug. I cant read the partnumber of the ECU since the numbers are gone... just can realize its a MSBxxxxx

i tested on the ECU black plug and i got 0V with or without the clutch pedal pressed...

Sorry for the dumb question, but where exactly should i get the 12V? Second dumb question, from what source should come the 12V? pin35 or pin34 from ECM. I measure pin 35 and i got 0V..

Since i dont own a nanocom, i try to do as much as possible without it. if required i need to travel 50km to use one from a friend. Regarding the clutch switch, one thing i tryed was to run with unplugged sensor and with a short circuit in the plug and the behavior is exactly the same. I saw in...

Before changing the clutch and brake switch i checked with nanocom diagnostic tool. I was pressing the pedals and no status was changing in the tool (compared with another TD5 and on the other car was changing the status). After swapping for new parts i could test again with nanocom.. i need to...

Hi, some months ago i retrofit in my 2000 2.5 TD5 the required switch(dash and steering wheel) and hopping it would work...it didn't.. :( I made some investigations with nanocom to check the possible problems: Brake switch: not ok but was replaced by new one Clutch switch: not ok but replaced...

!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT WORKED !!!!!!!!!!!! Many thanks @sierrafery ! I had talked with several mechanics and "experts" and no one had this in mind. It was very hard to make it since that I was alone in the car and has you are imagine, heated rear window and rear fog are in oposite site of the wheel...

Hi, Your explanation makes all sense. As soon as a arrive home I will test the procedure. Thanks a lot.

I was expecting the same. This issue is worst during the night when I stop to give a lift to anyone and the person enters in the car and the are keeping on during 20sec wit the motor running and all doors closed. Then I cannot drive properly because of the light inside... :(

Hi, it have the same behavior no matter the door( passenger or tail).

thanks.

thanks

Hi, My D2 have a strange behaviour with the interior lights. Every time that I open a door, the lights are turned on but they shutoff after 15sec independently if the doors are close or still open. by different words, I open a door, the lights are turned on, I keep the door open and 15seconds...

Hi all, Im Andre and im from Portugal. I recently change a Discovery 300 by a Discovery 2. Im still adapting myself to the new car. hope we can change good information together.