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My 3.9 classic cut out like that, waited ten minutes or more and it would run again but not for long. Was the amp on the distributor.

Try CK0 1080 In-Car 3rd Gen DVB-T 12V Twin Digital Freeview Hideaway TV Tuner Glassmount Antennas

Whatever you buy immediately put it on new shock absorbers (Boge) and a new steering damper. It will ransform the car (advice from Druim I followed - transformed it!)

+1 on that. I have rebuilt many engines, many different types plus Land Rovers but mostly Jags and Astons plus others some to race spec. And only skim if necessary or as required. On my p38 v8 I have skimmed a fraction over the spec because the heads had been badly skimmed before. So decided...

from new RR says the reface limit = 0.50mm (0.02 in) from new dimension. To check the new dimension (cylinder head at each end) Engine numbers without suffix B A = the lower part of the head = 23.9mm (0.94 in) Where the head bolts are) B = the upper part of the head = 63.5mm Engine numbers...

Times out very quickly too, so don't pop to the loo or you have to login again! Like the site though.

Check Trans box fluid, grease props, check front diff fluid (done rear). Air filter and plugs. Should do it for now. Ohh do a major clean out inside then treat her to a wash. Recent work: Rear Arnotts (already done fronts). New Doge shocks, new drag link and steering damper. New roll bar rubbers.

Just Google anr2239 and you get loads of stuff on it including old LandyZone threads. Including threads from wammers!

Some of the specials had cup holders in the armrest my Holland and Holland does. Slides out from the base.

+1 Druim T4 can too but silly way to change bags

Where are you?

Still think you should do an adaptive reset At 200k are you blowing any blue smoke?

Yes, it's not a bad job to do. On Rear, place on axel stands (or jack) remove the wheel (loosen nuts before putting on stands). Do the top bolt first as advised above it will be tight. Remove lower bolt and rubbers - remove shock absorber. Refit is reverse. ps when undoing the bottom nut the...

Where are you? What made you think your engine ecu if faulty? What diagnostics did your indi use? Not come across this before on a L322 on a p38 the engine sync is from the BeCm same for a GEMS or a Motronic so I am assuming same for you as its a security issue. In your hand book is there a...

Its a bit more expensive but I fit the diesel battery in my petrol V8. Its as big as you can get in the battery box and this has served me well over many years.

If the top bush has gone the shock absorber must be well past its sell by date - replace (both) rear shock absorbers, in fact if they have gone do all four. Just one bolt for the top. But remove carefully, no twelve sided sockets. Ease it back and forth on a cracker bar first to remove. To...

That could be it. I don't think any of us knows for shure but if the Driver Pack has a fizzzy (or several) and sends some signals that have not beeen commanded to say several air spring solenoids (remembering that under normal surcumstanses the inlet or exhaust valve must be energised together...

Ever taken a bad girl out?? lots of fun but can cost! If you can afford fun - buy !! the secret is maintenance.

Agree that you should not do an adaptive reset until all the jobs are done but a diagnostic now with live data should show where the problems are or everyone is guessing. Fix misfire is good advice. Druim is right though - fix that petrol leak first

Good advice, when all done get a diagnostic to check and reset the fueling