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YRM sell repair sections for them.

At some point the changed the lower bush arrangement on the rear shocks with deeper bushes and cups welded to the axle mounts, this necessitated a longer pin on the shock body. I think that happened around the introduction of the Td5 in the late 90s so could be the reason for the change in part...

Like all these things it’s not a case of the actual practicality on the ground, it’s the theoretical position within a framework of legislation and industry practice etc. It’s highly unlikely that any local authority would allow use of chainsaws by those without both qualifications and public...

Is it me or are your rear A-frame arms on upside down too? I thought the ‘kink’ had to go upwards.

Some still work, and if it does then I’d leave it on. The self-leveller combined with the softer springs for vehicles equipped as such makes for a much nicer ride than the usual ‘fix’ of just buying the commercial heavier springs. Later station wagon vehicles used progressive springs instead of...

I’d be more concerned that you seem to be missing the hub cap.

Here’s the full setup:

Also, check you have the right kit, there are different ones for pre-1998 and post-1998 vehicles. Plus 90s and 110s differ on the later ones.

You’re missing the angle bracket that bolts to the bottom of the crossmember. As such the ladder assembly is sitting too high up, hence why the arms appear too long.

The Td5 speedo unit can be programmed to read in KMH or MPH, obviously the dial backing needs changed as well. You’d need to open it up and access the chip with an EEPROM reader to do this. There’s a chap goes by Cwazywabbit on LR4x4 who has done this. Would be easiest to just buy a second hand...

Averaged over 30mpg in the last 132,000 miles in mine. As you can see there is significant variation over time and in differing conditions. Your wastegate being seized open would have prevented any boost and therefore any additional fuelling, effectively turning your engine into a naturally...

It’s a Bosch VE pump. There’s a rectangular flat area on the right hand side of the pump (facing the o/s wing) which will have all the stamped numbers on.

You’ll need an air-fed mask for spraying 2K really. You only get one set of lungs.

It’s nice and secure ;) No three phase at mine, so normal 230v compressor - just needs a chunky supply due to the startup current.

I could, but I only ever have it powered up and running when I’m there so it’s not presented a problem yet. No vents, when I’m using it I prop the lid open a few inches and that provides enough airflow. Just gets warm as one would expect. I was meaning to fit some but haven’t got round to it...

I built a little housing for it out the back of the workshop. Doesn’t silence it but it greatly reduces the noise inside the building to the point that it’s no longer oppressive. It’s a belt drive unit though so much quieter than the direct drive hobby ones anyway.

Depends on what you want from the vehicle I guess, do you need the extra power of the SL? All the bits are available through M&D at a price, and many of the common service bits are available elsewhere cheaper with a bit of thought.

Take the plug off the transducer on the back of the transfer box and clean the connectors.

Said expert would also have to explain that many hundreds of Land Rovers have been sold by them with the heavy duty (Wolf) wheel package and with them fitted on the standard studs. It’s not a problem - stop trying to make it into one.

It’s usual to need to shim those brackets a little, though usually only up to 10mm or so. You wouldn’t be the first person with a new chassis that has a bracket in the wrong place.