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https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/100832-clutch-pedal-box-cover-screws-thread-size/

Been blocked off for years I’m afraid.

Steering shaft - really? Funny place to put your steering column. It’s the hole for the air conditioning pipes to run through, from the engine bay into the blower unit that mounts under the dash. Block it off and seal well if not needed.

Either something’s not been tightened properly or perhaps you’re missing some of the plastic bushes which are part of the linkage mechanisms for both diff lock and high/low.

Not sure why folk are saying it will be difficult to find - if you can get the part number you should be able to buy a pipe simply enough. Something like this (no idea if this is the correct one - just a google search for freelancer air conditioning pipe)...

The chassis in the ad is the heavy duty spec, with the welded plates along the chassis rails. The genuine GKN chassis (via Marsland) have all the holes to either mount the transmission in the early 4-cyl/LT77 position or the V8/300Tdi/Td5 position. For the former you use the bolt-on mounts, for...

No idea, I meant to get the old head pressure tested but never got round to it. Swapping the head fixed it though, so it was either a cracked head or a head gasket leak.

Mine showed no water in oil or oil in water, and no pressurisation of the cooling system. No smoke out of the exhaust either, I figured it was a very small leak. Over a journey of a few hundred miles it would drop maybe 1/2” in the header tank.

Mine leaked into a cylinder I think. I had a coolant loss problem, with no external leaks, and swapping the head fixed it. The only symptom I had was an occasional lumpiness to the starting, which I put down to a small amount of water settling in the bore as it sat on a compression stroke.

In short, yes. If the bolt is loose it can move, movement causes wear. When tight there is no movement between bolt and bracket, so no wear can occur - other than in the rubber bush where it’s supposed to.

Your panhard rod is on the wrong way around for a UK car. Is it a left hand drive model?

Don’t think they do a 1-piece shaft for the Salisbury axle, only the Rover one as fitted to 90s, later 110s and D1/RRC. People have welded the drive flanges to the shaft in the past.

That has happened because they were loose, the inner sleeve should not move when the bolt is properly tight and so the length of the plain shank has no relevance. M14x80mm is the factory size. Replace the bolt and do it up FT.

They should be available from any Land Rover parts supplier if you look up the part numbers.

Or they’ve put the wrong oil in the gearbox or transfer box.

Just about everything steel is rotten there, so realistically you are looking at new chassis, doors, and body cappings. Plus either new bulkhead or significant repairs. Not to mention the plethora of other stuff that will need replacement, likely new brakes, pipes, fuel lines, tank etc. I’m...

It’s a 1.2 box in the Tdci. Hence the 6-speed gearbox, the extra low first makes up for the higher ratio transfer box. Absolutely a Tdi-powered Land Rover will always be less refined than a V8, or even an earlier indirect injection diesel one. An early Discovery is just a Defender with a...

Remember the Tdci models had higher ratio transfer boxes from the factory than previous versions which accounts for a great deal of the extra refinement, along with better soundproofing. You can achieve the same thing on earlier models by fitting a different transfer box or fitting an...

There was a date stamp on my 90’s original chassis, inboard side of the nearside rail just forward of the bulkhead outrigger. Was stamped 91 as my car was registered January 1992.

It’s not necessary, the viscous will lock up under those conditions and give you exactly what you need when you need it. It will also not sap power off the engine the rest of the time, which is a problem that welding it up would give you. Personally I don’t see any benefit in fitting an...