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Applied Lanoguard to the renovated chassis today. Hope it’ll last another 35 years now. HNY everyone.

Hey y’all ;-) I’m going to put the diesel tank back in the 110 shortly along with its protective shield. I cannot remember if the shield is hard up against the bottom of the tank or if it’s the other side of the bottom rubber mounts (between parts 9 and 10). Could someone take a look for me...

Haha I like your optimism :-) It’s good paint, and I did Kurust it so let’s see.

You’re quite right :-)

I think it was worth the effort. Let’s see if it lasts.

I’m finishing off the rear axle in the restoration and I was considering painting the outside if the hubs. It’s got rear drum brakes, so is it a total waste of time to paint them dya think? I was going to use the chassis paint but maybe VHT would be better. Thoughts? Cheers, Jim

Well all’s well that ends well (as someone once said), but there was a bit of swearing on the way. It seems that the flange on the new ‘improved’ pinion hub rubs on the nose of the diff which was what was causing me my problems. Mike from Britannica discovered the same thing. If your fitting...

These videos are both for rover diffs and mine is a Salisbury. Not sure what mikethebuilder has.

They were both bought at the same time but the one not in use wasn’t as good fit and needed reaming. I’ve now seen it’s also shorter as described.

All good thanks. I have a dial torque wrench so that’s not a problem. I have made a tools to lock the flange so that’s not a problem either when doing up the nut. I have a second unused crush sleeve (be prepared!) but what’s concerning me is that it as-new length is less than that of the...

I’m leaning towards the old crush sleeve being worn now and giving me a false idea of how long the new one would end up. The old sleev is indeed belled out at each end which looks like possible wear. I have a suitable dial torque wrench to set the preload but your water idea is sound. Thanks...

Understood. I think I meant that the length of the tube maintains the bearing separation which is what sets the preload? So the tube is passively maintaining the gap whilst allowing the nut to be torqued to stop it all coming undone. Is that what you said? I’m still worrying why the original...

Ok so I’m looking at it from the viewpoint of the original being correct, but you are right. If the original was very worn then there’d be a load of end float and a lack of pre-load, and the new crush being +1.5 could be correct. I wish I’d checked it beforehand. Hindsight hey :-)

I completely agree with you, and if the numbers had added up I’d have done just that. Having stripped it, I just don’t understand how come the new crush sleeve is longer than the old one by so much. Maybe I’m over thinking it.

My brain is telling me that with what I have now (+1.5mm), if the original spacer was back in it would be locked up solid. It doesn’t seem right.

Understood When I got the original preload set and then I inspected the crush sleeve, it had only shortened by 0.5mm, and still 1.5mm longer than the original. What I don’t get is how a 1.5mm difference could occur unless the original setting was really out. I guess that could be the case...

Ah but I’ve not replaced the bearings. :-) Only the crush sleeve, fling washer, oil seal, hub, washer and nut. Can you confirm that I’m correct in my assertion that the length of the crush sleeve effectively sets the preload by spacing the two bearings?

I’m really having a mare with this pinion. I assembled it all and tightened the nut up with the rattle gun until everything was seated, and then preceded to tighten up to crush the sleeve. I had calculated I’d need 1.3 turns from snug to crush the sleeve to the size of the original, so I went to...

Quite right. Attached are some photos. there does look to be a headrest fitting but only a single hole. The seat backs have a hard plastic cover. There’s a label in one frame but not sure if it will help. Cheers, Jim

Has anyone used the Britpart seat trim kit DA5630E on a VIN earlier than AA677964? This is the VIN they say they are good from. I’ve got a 1986 110 with a VIN before this and all Britpart will tell me is that it won’t fit. Has anyone tried, or know the problems/difficulties of making them...