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Useful video here for stripping down and cleaning injectors:

I was driving down the dual carriage way and I thought it was raining. I had my window wipers going but then I noticed that nobody else did. Water was ****ing out the front of the rad. The AA guy put some radweld in and it slowed the leak down enough for me to drive home (wasn't far). Don't know...

Old head is off. It was almost worryingly easy! :) Rocker shaft is duff though. As you can see in the image below, there are pitting and deep grooves in the shaft. A believe you're supposed to change the bushings in the rocker arms at the same time but I don't think I have the necessary...

Was driving down the motorway today when coolant started ****ing out of the radiator. Engine had overheated without me realising, called an AA guy to get me home, and he's said the head gasket has gone. I figured that seeing as I was going to have to take the head off and most likely get it...

All sorted. Just used the wire that goes to the injector pump

Hi guys, I'm in the middle of wiring up an alarm/immobiliser to my 1996 300tdi Defender 90. All I've got left to do is add an immobiliser to the fuel pump but I haven't been able to find the relay. I've tried disconnecting the relay I thought it was, but after 10mins the engine is still running.

Just a thought, do you have LED lights? I've read that these can cause a lot of interference.

Try this: http://lhsw.com/d90/Defender_Electrical_Library.pdf

I'd try eliminating all problems and wire direct to the battery to see what happens. If you still get distortion then it's a speaker problem.

Yes. The colour changes depending on which scale map you are using. On the OS 1:25000 the byways are green, but on the 1:50000 they are red (as per your image).

Britpart prop (or at least that's what the sticker on the packaging said) off fleabay. Returned, no questions asked, full refund received.

Reiny, whilst you're at it, would be able to take a photo of where the switch goes please? I also have this problem and have a bunch of loose wires floating around near the transfer box.

Managed to Q-Bond it back on. Seems solid enough.

Decided to stop messing around and just replace the prop. Voila, all sorted! For anybody else reading this, I would just like to confirm that I tried the front prop in many orientations/phases trying to remedy the wobble. The one that had the least wobble, was with the shorter male end facing...

Oops! I take it this isn't supposed to happen?

I've run out of fuel twice in my 300tdi because the needle seems to stop just after it dips below half way. Is there a way to test the signal from the sender? Is there a way to fake a signal to the gauge? Which is the most likely to be at fault?

This was my original plan and thought about different places to connect the line to, such as doors, propshafts, etc, but I couldn't think of anything that would be difficult for the potential thief to disarm. Hence I decided to go down the electronic route.

Or just have the vehicle transform into ED-209: "You have 5 seconds to comply..." "I am now authorized to use physical force"

Disarming electronically is quite easy, however, faults do occur and therein lies the risk. If you could disarm them mechanically it would be much safer, say be physically removing the igniter from the fuse. The only downside is that it would be less convenient. They do, but the smoke machines...

That makes sense. I'm still tempted though. Parts have been ordered so I might as well have a play. Before installing it properly, I could perhaps have the system wired up to a fuse which doesn't go anywhere. Leave it like that for a couple of months and see what happens. Originally, I was...