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I need to improve the oil breather setup to get my 19J through a French MOT. Apparently normal level of oil leakage for a 1986 landrover is no longer within acceptable limits for modern road use... I've seen there are some 19j sumps with an inlet for drain tube off the breather- but they're...

Failed my control technique ( French MOT) and made a big order to paddocks. Fixed a few of the issues - like sticking the pointless middle seat back in as the paperwork says 3 seats. And riveted the number plate on as apparently bolts are an automatic fail ! Trying to decide if I should cut...

I just used a picture I found on the interwebz that looked right, as mine is outside in the dark and snow and the camera is hiding....It does look like yours. Hence the idea of replace whole door, or bodge in a lift handle on both sides one... it can't make the soundproofing, watertightness or...

I'd have a poke round the local breakers yard, but there only one within two hours doesn't have anything useful...

There are new original spec doors available- at 400 quid each. I'll take the rear door handle off, offer up to the door, and have a look...I can always cut the door card and or door itself to fit!

Now I'm more confused.... It's got rectangular pull handles on the inside, like this. There has been a bodge somewhere!

I'd rather not padlock myself in...

I've got a 1986 90 with lift up handles, and they're knackered. Drivers side door keeps opening itself while driving, and fiddling with it hasn't helped. Locks are equally knackered ( as are the doors, galvanic corrosion, but I'm not replacing them..) Trying to find replacement door mechanisms...

Built a new glow plug loom from 6mm cable, as the old one had lost too much insulation. Dropped nuts for the the fiddly and inaccessible plug on 19J engine about 7 times...after the third one, I stuck a big sheet under the car to catch them. And stuck a new numberplate on it. The last repair...

Last few days... Removed the bent track rod, and replaced, did wheel alignment in proper landrover fashion- bit of bailer twine run fore and aft, and twiddle the rod until both sides are straight at once. Replaced the emergency braking system, also known as the front bumper. Replaced the...

They were all bled and the system topped off by a professional garage three months ago, so the bleed valves should be fine. Also, it is currently sitting outside, and I can't yet get it into the garage to work on the brakes in the level, clean and dry. Plan is replace the tie rod and do an...

Sounds like a 19J warming up. They're 30 years old now, and let you know it! A full engine overhaul would likely cure it, and cost an arm and a leg...

A Dephi cylinder and 1.5 litres of fluid are on their way. Hopefully that'll take care of the brakes, as renewing the pipework looks rather fiddly and messy...

No braking at all. Trying it static this afternoon, no resistance on the pedal with engine on or off, other than return springs. Fluid was well above minimum on the flat. Disconnected the vacuum hose, and it would stick to my finger with the engine running. Not impressive, but clearly working...

Any other ideas for a total failure of the brakes? Had been working fine two days beforehand on the same road...

Currently standing on mud, so hard to check. Level in the reservoir is OK, so I wasn't looking for a big leak. Once I have steering back, I'll get it in a flat dry garage, and can check better...

After an interesting total brake failure on a steep mountain road, I'm making a few repairs to my braking system. Vacuum pump is OK, fluid level is OK with no obvious leaks, and given the sudden and total lack of any brakes, I'm 99% certain it is the master cylinder. Are the Britpart ones...

Has anyone had issues with a bonnet mounted spare wheel on a Defender for the Control Technique? I know anything that significantly blocks vision isn't allowed, but do they block enough to cause a legal issue? The rear door mount is a right pain when hitching trailers, and bonnet mounts are...

Resistance in switch between supply and glow-plugs when in pre-heat position.... 200K ohms. In cranking position....0.3 ohms. Problem located!

Got to the back of it. Unscrewed the ignition assembly to check connections there- all look sound and no signs of overheating or short circuits. Looks like the problem is in the ignition switch.