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you remove that top cover You lift out the diaphragm At the very bottom of the hole is a little pin that should slide into as you apply the throttle this is the little pin that rise up and down on the tapered part of the boost pin The bottom pin is the part that can seize

it was a long time ago when I ran the cable into the car through the Grommet I believe the Gromit is for the clutch pipe for the manual version so if yours is a manual you do not have a spare Grommet if that makes sense?

Well once you eliminate everything else, the only thing left is the injector pump itself. Have you check the fuel pin to see if it is seizing/seized? Just to confirm it did not do the stalling thing until the mech changed the cambelt?

Just had a thought, have you checked the valve clearances?

Has the inj pump been messed with? I ask as the only time I have seen a near stall when pedal released was when I backed my fuel screw off a knatts cock to much. Cannot hurt to tweak the idle screw a little. Is it a 200 or 300 injection pump? 200 is bare bones basci pump, 300 got more techy and...

Nowheres near enough grease to fill the diffs, so mabe he added it to new diff oil?

Change the nut to an M10 flanged nut, these then have a 15mm head which means a smaller socket can be used, and because it has a flange you can push it onto the stud, same for gbox to flywheel housing nuts.

I often use an old saying at work, if there is any doubt then there is no doubt, ie if you have to think is it shagged? then the answer is yes. Years ago they would do what they called top and tail, basically new main and big end shells with new rings, and away you went, not perfect but it worked.

it might pay to join the series 2 forum and have an ask on there, there are some very knowledgeable people on there.

By shuttle the mechanic might mean the sliding gear dog that changes the transfer box between high and low ratio.

I would hazard a guess that number is just the casting number, and not the part number. I do not think anyone is still commercially rebuilding series gearboxes anymore?

Rotate inj pump until proper timing hole lines up, then check the crank flywheel slot is visible, if no go rotate crank 360 and try again, obviously using the crank bolt to rotate engine and not the inj pump nut, sorry if teaching you to suck eggs! I have never done it, but I have been told it...

Random pic borrowed from the web, ignore the arrow.

Pretty sure that is the wrong hole, I think it is at the top ie 12 oclock, it is a round hole in the alloy casing of the injection pump. I am not sure if I have any pics, but will take a look.

That is called a hard reset, disconnect battery leads from battery, join lead ends together for a few seconds, this discharges all the capacitors etc in everything on the vehicle, reconnect leads and thats is it. Sometimes have to do this when you cannot get fault codes to clear, but you have...

No idea (to lazy to look!) on the pressure the facet pump delivers, but you can tell when it is not switched on, it only really makes any difference at higher rpm as the bosch ve injection pump also has its own built in vane pump, so as an anti theft device it is a no go on the tdi engines, but...

Iirc it has to be over 40 years old, and is to do with the month registered, so you might have to go 40yrs and 4 mths for example? You still have to tax it even when it becomes foc, can be done online and literally takes a minute or two.

No idea, but like most things LR it just might, would certainly be a neat solution, oh and I think that is a 300 vac pump, the 200 vac pump fits where the series inj pump mounts. I fitted a cheap copy facet elec fuel pump to my 200tdi years ago as was sick if lift pump issues, been fine all...

For testing just run a wire from the battery positive terminal to the stop solenoid, it should click as you apply the wire, this does not mean it is working, but it is a good start.

Probably the cheapest starting point, it is after all that time of year. If keeping the car get yourself a code reader.