Search results

I couldn't recommend doing your own work where possible, garage wanted £500! to do the lower control arm ball joint. replaced all the joints with a new arm for £30. Ridiculous...

Today I got fed up of my land rover and kick the drivers door because it ****ed me off. Now the window won't go down... lesson learned next time kick it harder so the frame falls out and I can scrap it :mad: I Jest, I did blow it up though :) got quite a lot of smoke coming from the...

Just taken a look and it's £185 for a recon and 285 if I don't send mine back would that change anything you mention? I wouldn't say I want to go out of my way to do it but thinking long term it may be cheaper just want to drive the bloody thing. IRD I have one I could take from my diesel TD4...

I am looking at doing this to my VCU as currently I was unknowingly driving in RWD as my gearbox went kaput and towed another car almost 200 miles, either way VCU is cooked and I am wondering anyone that has done it. Is it worth it? I would need a vice, tapping kit and grease nipples along with...

Not sure about newer ones but the FL1 with issues is almost worthless, I have bought 3 now for 300 or less ranging from 1999 to 2004 :)

Not sure about the lock on the door but try this for the rear window; 1. Disconnect Negative cable from battery 2. Disconnect Positive Cable from battery 3. touch the cables together and hold for 15-20 seconds 4. Put the positive cable back on 5. Put the negative cable back on 6. Window will go...

Yes. It will be fused with the force of a thousand stars :D never had to do a bearing though always replaced it with the hub so I can't provide any advice unfortunately :(

Can confirm when I undid mine with a 2 ft breaker bar plus 6ft of trolley jack handle the crack echoed for centuries doing it a second time will not happen...

I had to do the front wheel hub on my FL1 and did not have the tools, the hub nut is tightened to 400NM from the factory which is ridiculous and you need to replace it after removing it, however with my lack of tools I managed to get a gear puller from my local toolstation (UK if you are in US)...

Not having a FL 2 but this sounds like an ABS / wheel sensor fault as all of the errors would be linked to the wheels, could try replacing the ABS sensor probably started to get all sorts of confused. Had a similar driving experience on a BMW 1 Series when the wheel speed sensor went on that.

So... The weekend has been busy got a few people together and managed to replace the gearbox in a day, lots of stress and hard to reach bolts but it's back in and I can confirm that the front drive now works, the splines on the gearbox had sheared off. To remove the gearbox though I had to cut...

Honestly, sometimes the latch release actuator gets stuck in the down position so when closing the door and pressing the handle the actuator does not move, I sometimes have to kick the s*** out of my rear boot then try the handle and it will open haha :)

Hey man, I have a TD4 starter laying around if the corrosion is not causing the issue, let me know!

Hey! Can't say I had the same issue, mine would not go down on my FL1, so I guess much better, however in the summer not fun, in short I discovered the plastic part that had the cable for the motor to pull had water and corroded the plastic over a long time so I needed to replace the whole...

I took the clock spring from it, super easy to change, wrench and screwdriver will set you up, may need to re-use your clock spring though.

Hey, you'll have to let me know, however I can clean one one, it has volume control if you are at all interested, in the beige colour. Does that work?

You can always get a spray bottle with water, spray down all the turbo lines where they are clamped, start the car and check for bubbles ;)

yeah I thought so but mine says 8V on the engine but also says TD4 on the back (Door) You know what, I will take it out the diesel and let you all know how it goes :)

Hey so I have a Petrol 1.8 and a Diesel 2.0 TD4 (Parts car) I may need to replace the Gearbox (another thread in question) but I am of the understanding that the gearbox from the TD4 does not fit the 1.8 Petrol. However... This suggests that the 1.8 petrol and 2.0 Diesel are the same as long...

Though the more I look around and at the below picture: The more I think it is stripped as the splines where the IRD would go (The smaller set of splines) it is smooth but with little bit of spline at the end. this picture illustrates this Red being the beginning of the splines, blue being...