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I’ve got half box of Marathon bars you can have, I’m a generous fella.

I’ll give you £200 and you’ll be £50 up.

Looks nice, makes me realise what a state mine is in! Try We Buy Any Car for a minimum value - their actually quite generous with Defenders. I’d say around the £20k mark, maybe not a lot more because 130k on the clock is erring on the higher mileage side of things.

I haven’t looked into it properly [at all], but I thought about fitting front seats into the back row. Far more secure than the folding ones currently fitted and with the added luxury of being reclining! Not the answer you’re looking for, but might be worth investigating (for my benefit).

One of the most effective and cheapest mods I have done on my Landy was turn the lower vents upside down and swap the passenger side for the driver’s and vice versa. Still get some air pumped down to the feet, but the bias is now aimed upwards and towards the occupants’ bodies and faces. So much...

Take the current seats out and ask the seller if you can try fitting them in the back before you buy, if that’s an option?

They look like they’re direct replacements for the vents under the dash .

Scourer in the kitchen, sanding fleece when in the workshop. Sounds more tekinercall.

Well, all fitted today, seems to work fine. The needle would still move about if lights/indicators/brakes were used, so I popped another earth between the bulkhead earths and the engine block. She now sits rock steady, seems a bit low at around 80, but it does rise a bit higher when slogging it...

This is true. When I got my Landy 9 years ago I didn’t really have much of a clue about mechanics, other than tinkering with mowers. After my second visit to the garage and £100 worse off for a UJ swap, I thought ‘f’ck this’! and since then I’ve done everything myself. The cost is a major...

P.s all of those excuses are why a lot of us now fix our own vehicles. Fire away with questions, the forum may help you to fix your Landy for you!

Glencoyne would be your best bet in Norfolk. Expect them to be busy though.

Sounds more like an earth issue than a problem with the gauge.

Thanks for the offer chap! I ordered a M16x1 split die from fleaBay before I saw this. Only £8, so I’ll see what turns up. If I get stuck and give up I’ll be in contact! Thanks again.

@zeaphod I should have just listened to you in the first place! I bought the metric Durite adaptors, but I have exactly the same problem as you did to begin with - original thread is fine, adaptor is coarse. Did you end up ever converting any of the adaptors to fine thread? I’m going to buy a...

The indicators and gauges share the same fuse, the horn uses a separate fuse which also protects the interior light. What action makes the horn fuse blow?

It will either be LRC392 Shire Blue, or LRC424 Arles Blue. It’s difficult to tell from a photo which it actually is! If you know when yours was built (from the VIN) then that may aid you, as Arles was after August ‘89

What year is it?

Have a look at the link I posted, it appears that MTF isn’t always a good swap.

Stupid question, how does an adapter work if both sizes are M16? Surely any adapter would decrease the diameter and the M16 sender thread wouldn’t fit?