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The ball is worn on the shoulder of one side only, with the new ball in it's much better on the steering. I see where you are comming from though, it must be worn if they normally stick out past the flange? Any suggestions on how to get the old one out, bearing in mind I can't get the arm off...

I tried the socket on top but there dosen't seem to be any lip of the bearing sticking out on mine, it seems totally flush with the boot seal flange?

When your clutch fluid is lost without any visable sign of loss it's normally the slave seals gone.

Well I had to admit defeat and leave the old bearing in place and fit the new stub in it. It's tight but not the job I wanted to do. I'll see what the MOT man thinks of it. :o

Yeah that's the one, I have a genuine Landrover kit called a stub something, I can't get the top bearing of the balljoint out as it's covered by the lip cut into the arm, can't get the arm off either! :doh:

I have to replace the stub bolt on my steering, it's the one right at the front of the vehicle that joins the short stub control bar to the bar connected to the wheels. If you have done one of these kits you will know the top bearing of the stub bolt gets stuck, how the hell do you get them out...

It's normally bad earths that cause this, try and find the earthing point local to that circuit and clean it up.

Still looking for information, I don't rate Sepson much for not answering emails? :confused:

What about vinal roof paint? I used some a few years ago, good stuff if it's still made. Try Frost.co.uk

I have a 2.5 ton Sepson winch on the front of my 2A, it was given to me as unused for about 10 years so I supposes it wouldn't work, it dosen't! Before I unbolt it to strip it down I would like some technical infor on it and an exploded diagram. Sepson haven't answered my email so I'm asking if...

I am the lucky (Un!) owner of a 2A with a rotten chassis. It was a range vehicle for the British Army in Canada and is fitted with loads of radio gear mounts and battery boxes etc. More switches then you would ever belive possible and is in need of a rebuild. I have been reading back posts...

Interesting, did you re-register the new chassis number? As for painting galv, if it's fresh it will have salts comming out of it for ages, better to leave it outside for as long as possible then use a primer "designed" for galv. Done quite a bit of galv painting and have had good results with...

You know what to tell Labour next general election then.....

That's my point, at least try, it may work when "tax "n" spend" Labour finally go bust. (And us with them!)

Another Tax free Landy? Another post about tax free status for all vehicles over 25 years old (My present 1984 LR90 will soon be) Another Landy owner who dosent want to give Blair and Co any more of their money and would prefer to spend it on the Landy they own? Another petition? What?

And....if I replace the chassis with a new shiney galv one later on is that also going to let me keep the tax free status?

We the undersigned petition the Prime Minister to Remove the fixed date of 1972 to qualify as "historic vehicle" and make the qualifying date on the vehicles 25th birthday.

So I'm going to be ok changing from petrol to diesel, does the engine have to be 25+ years old or can I stuff in a 200TDi and still get tax exempt status?

I'm possibly going to be given an ex army 2A soon with tax free status. Can anybody tell me if the tax free status can be kept if I upgrade the engine to a diesel?

Dif lock locks the centre dif not the wheels. The diffs on the axels remain as...diffs, ie one wheel will spin. Full dif locks on axels is a different ball game. LSD on axels is a good system but it makes off roading interesting in mud as you have to power turn as well as steer!