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Post 24 has the manual with those important steps on

its disheartening but youll get there

and when dots lined up did it match the max EP measured with DTI see fault table above

yes you have to put in on u tube and do a link for videos, more of a fine spray than a squirt reqd

Did the cam/crank dots line up with arrows and match the EP measured with dti , as you mentioned it was a bit off earlier in post 83 but you might have just went with that have you followed the manual timing instructions for the early or later engine is solenoid getting voltage and working ok

That looks the correct cam https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/products/etc-7128lr-camshaft-etc-4104-spacer-bx110071m-bolt?_pos=1&_fid=7e597510e&_ss=c

360 degrees /6 =60 degrees , probably not a good idea

Your first two paragraphs in last post contradict each other ? 1. When dots on crank and cam line up valves foul pistons 2. Crank and can dots nearly line up and no problem So yes use the dots or valve max opening EP and crank dot adjust belt with pump as well and that should be it so give it...

North end at Ingleby Greenhow

when you put the crank wheel dot set to arrow does the dot on cam wheel match up with arrow 2 turns crank = 1 turn on cam You have estimated the EP using pushrods but you should check with your dti on the rocker to see if the dots line up , then onto pump

So at this point slot not lined up with round hole ok so i think you need to disregard the slot as i did , with crank gear dot aligned with pointer then that is at 109 degrees before top dead centre (EP) and you would expect all pistons to be about half way down. you should mark the flywheel...

so when you do this is the punched dot on crank gear lined up with arrow on rear cover if so thats good so you know TDC and EP can be found on the crank , then to double check EP dot on cam wheel does actually match Exhaust peak on no 1 as measured correctly by the DTI with head on and rockers on

on your pics above the cam wheel should be set to dot not lines according to manual , the crank pic is shown at TDC but you can see the dot that should be used at the 4 o clock position (this will be EP) if crank turned to the dot can you see any marks in the flywheel housingwindow where...

i think you should ignore the locking of the flywheel as this wont help edit (unless working to the later engine setup methodology )

caliper will just do the top, i borrowed one of these, an internal micrometer. very accurate, but on my 2286 i also took block to a machine shop for them to double check , i had a wear ridge that you could feel with fingernail but was only about 3-5 thou , i still decided to get a rebore to...

sorry for any confusion but i think its an error on your marks, im not quite sure which marks you have on your flywheel , if they are stamped EP and TDC or at all, but if your pistons are hitting the valves then the camshaft is in the wrong position when the piston is coming to TDC , if you have...

Ok , so can you whip off the head look for wear ridge at top and perhaps measure bores that will give a good indication of condition, then you could remove pistons check rings and bearings etc

Better off putting your starter on off the landy you’ll get a better reading

Is there not supposed to be a bit clearance rather than lashed up tight

Is there locking washers on it, has it been overheated