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Best to strip down the transfer box and see what the issue is before buying new parts , if you do buy parts buy quality bits if you can using the correct part numbers There should be stamped numbers on it telling you which gearbox suffix you have

You can check for end float on the oil pump gears and then buy new gears if reqd, but aftermarket pumps will not have the quality of the genuine pump which you will be better off keeping imo https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/blogs/news/article-2-25petrolenginerebuild

What to the main bearing shells look like , can you post some pics of them, on mine on some the white metal had started to wear off showing the copper , bearings cheap so good one to replace , assume crank bearing surface ok Turner engineering good for parts also they have some rebuild articles...

Well don’t forget about and leave us hanging, let us know if you find it😀

I could just feel a small ridge and I think that equated to less than 10 thou oversize on mine but I still got a rebore. But if you don’t want to I would measure what you can , completely strip down and check for visible wear , you can always do the minimum , put it back together , pressure test...

You can measure the piston clearance in bore also as in the data sheet

Can you see or feel with your fingernail a ridge at the top of piston where the top piston ring stops this will show wear in bore Have you tried putting the piston rings in bore using a piston to keep it square and placing it towards the bottom of cylinder ( no wear here) then measuring gap...

This might be a good place to ask https://www.facebook.com/groups/landroverseries123cyprus/

Is that your garage or the mechanics , if yours, I’m impressed and you will have all the gear to fix anything on it If mechanics, did he only remove that bottom cover to identify problem What was the landy doing or not doing when you were driving it that highlighted the issue

If it looks like this well done Layfin

Well done on fixing the stuck clutch, need to keep it moving frequently from now on , however if it gets stuck again have a look at this thread , I thought it so good I saved it on me tablet https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/releasing-a-stuck-clutch.55501/

the supports miss the steering bits, i chopped mine off to move forward and fit higher to allow a 200di engine in, then fitted an additional strut to support air filter with an 8mm nutsert in chassis

The middle seat bracket looks like you have that , the white bit, the seat back should have two studs sticking out that go through the holes either side , just prise the brackets apart , won’t need to use split pins The passenger and driver side just a mirror image of each other, last pic...

I bought a suitable belt from charity shop made my own straps , self tapped into back of seat Middle seat back has some studs either side which fit in the two side brackets, secured at top with the straps the base sits nicely in the base frame See if I can add pic tomorrow

An old seat I removed had a metal back and as I recall had those holes in them , perhaps that’s the remains of the old seat. So agree don’t need them I have deluxe in mine secured just using top holes in side brackets , allows you to lean them forward . They do also need to be secured to...

did you test gb without od fitted to see if it jumps out of gear

https://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FaireyOverdriveManualPg2.html

Perhaps a number on the receipt email ?

http://www.automotivecomp.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/2.25-petrol-head-exchange-notes-min.pdf New head time I think https://www.simmonites.com/shop/engines/cylinder-heads/series-petrol-unleaded/

Looks ok https://classicmotorhub.com/the-rules-and-regulations-for-black-and-silver-number-plates/#:~:text=Those%20vehicles%20with%20a%20construction,plate%20displaying%20a%20Euro%20symbol.