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Morning All, I’m looking at trying to upsize the tyres on my FL 1. Vehicle information: 2 inch lift 1.8T SAIC 200bhp engine Uprated clutch from a different car All new front and rear suspension and driveshafts I want to upsize my tyres to try and get more ground clearance, I know that the...

Morning All, I own a 2004 Freelander 1 with a SAIC 1.8T engine and 2inch lift. I currently have a suspension knock when I hit a pot hole, no other time. I can’t find play in any joint, but none the less I decided to upgrade to poly. So it’s got new wishbones and poly bushes, new tie rod ends...

Hey glad you found it helpful, just as a note I have now swapped this engine out for the 2012 MG6 SAIC engine. My Original engine seemed to have HG issue, even after skim and pressure test it still had issues. The 1.8T from the MG6 is nearly identical just a lot newer. There is another forum...

Evening, engines in and running here’s a bit of a write up about it. When I say SAIC I mean the engine from the 2012 MG6 Differences that I could notice: Oil Filter Housing (SAIC has 1 less sensor on it, fit 75/FL1.) Block Coolant passage with coolant sensor (it’s the same as 75 so fit FL1.)...

As long as the spacings correct and the sensors held firmly enough there shouldn’t be a problem. But it all depends on what I find tomorrow, I will take some pictures and let you know how it goes fitting the SAIC engine.

I’m using everything from a Rover 75 T. So I’m swapping to the 75T flywheel, turbo/manifold and 75T intake. Blank of the EGR on the MG6 version. Then I can use the K Maps ECU I have. That’s the plan anyway, everything looks interchangeable but I won’t find out until tomorrow. The plan for the...

Thanks, I reckon I can cut the block/modify the sensor and get it to work with the original sensor.

I’m in the process of swap my Freelander 1.8 k for the MG6 1.8T engine, there’s loads of little difference, nothing that can’t be overcomed by swapping bits of the old engine. The only difference I’m worried about is that MG6’s crank sensor mount is 0.5cm thicker than the K series. Does anyone...

How would that cause exhaust gases in the coolant though?

Symptoms: Extreme pressuring of the coolant. Fails block tester What I’ve done: Leak down test, passes happily. 3 HG changes (MLS and Elastomer) Latest one I had the head skimmed and pressure tested(passes). New Liners(all roughly 5 thou protruding I assumed it would drop slightly under...

They’re all 0.003 bigger, they’re equal just higher then they should be.

So heads off, I timed it with a 15min break it took me 1hour 45 minutes to get the head off, not to shabby. Upon inspection the head is fine, there is no indent just the usual gasket marks. The head is flat, as I am unable to get a 0.005mm shin under a straight edge. Liners are relatively...

Perfect I will do that when I next take the head off, any ideas on my other questions? Can I remove the engine with IRD and Gearbox in situ? Any idea on my non starting, I can’t seem to get a spark, can hear the pump pump kick in, MAP and TPS are reading correct, and I’ve swapped the cam...

Do you mean the gasket it self or the cylinder head and block?

I ordered “2x K Series Head OEM-Q Gasket (Elastomer) - BW750 / LVB000320”

Doubt it, I bought is from DMGRS as a bw750 gasket.

Yea I used the latest bolts, the rivets dented the block, I don’t remember them denting they head.

There didn’t seem to be ring marks but there were marks from the what looked like rivets from the gasket. I assume this is what you mean.

It could also be a crack head although it wasn’t seen my myself or the machinist when he skimmed, but it wasn’t pressure tested. Do you think the only think it could be is liners?

Hey all, I have some questions if anyone could answer I’d appreciate it. My car is a 2004 1.8 with a rover 75 turbo engine that’s been rebuilt, however I continually have my coolant pressuring and even blew a hose off. I did the usual new cap and all of that, eventually did a block test and...