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Make sure the pivot mechanism at the bottom of each shoe is moving freely. The often get overlooked.

Fair enough. I'll bow to the experts..

You can't run a rear diff in the front. The crown wheel and pinion will be running on the backs of their teeth.

Make sure your pedal is at the correct height off the floor. I can't remember the correct measurement but I'm sure someone here will assist with that. Also make sure your master cylinder has some pushrod free play.

Is the clutch pedal travelling to the floor, or are you met with a firm stop before the pedal goes all the way down? The piston in the slave might be hitting the circlip at the end of the bore, thus limiting the amount of push onto the clutch pressure plate. It's easy to end up with an incorrect...

I was fortunate that my bellhousing already had a hole in it (for an unknown reason), where I could undo the pressure plate bolts. Hopefully you can squeeze a spanner through the gap that you have.

If you're getting only a 1/2" gap between the bellhousing the spigot bush might be stuck on your input shaft, having come out of the crank. That is catching on the front face of the clutch disk. I had this issue before.

Although I rate Gates very highly for fuel line, I have always fitted genuine Mercedes spill lines. It's the best quality that I've ever seen, not much more expensive, and lasts for many years. Fitted to 1980's model Mercedes 240D through to the 1990's E300D 6 cylinder engine code OM606. Be...

If Ashcrofts are advertising their new CWP's as 3.5 I reckon that's a fact. If they were actually 3.54's they would be advertised as such. Mismatching front and rear diffs even at a this 1.1% difference would probably munch your centre diff.

If you're going down the stainless route I would suggest adding more pipe clamps to all lines. Stainless is not as flexible as copper or mild steel and will usually start to hairline crack with any vibration.

I second that very valuable advice from Lynall.

Take your Range Rover to the nearest multi storey car park. One with a dry nicely painted concrete floor. Drive it at a fast walking pace in a straight line. When up to speed take a full left or right turn with the gearbox in neutral. Ideally try to go in a circle. If your viscous unit has...

Firstly I wouldn't describe the standard 3.9 Rover V8 in your Disco 1 as a powerful. The cylinder heads fitted are more suited to a nice spread of torque from low down as they are a heavy vehicle. The standard V8 is not really a revvy engine. The bobweights in the distributor use a mechanical...

Yes JohnKeane is on the money, I should have mentioned that. The vac advance is for economy and not much else. The operation of the centrifugal advance has a big effect on power and the weights mechanism does need a few drops of oil at service time..

You won't feel much vacuum from the vac advance connection on the manifold as it's located slightly upstream of the throttle butterfly. If you open the throttle to give it a rev you will feel some vacuum but it will never be high. Take off the distributor cap and have a good suck on the vac...

You might have blown one of the "Mega" fuses. Depending on model there can be 2,3 or 4 underneath the right hand seat. I'd suggest fixing your original problem of a busted pump. It could be popping your fuse if it has seized. Also, you have a main power relay under your seat which might have...

Dashboard fuse C4 should be the fuel pump.

Your pressure plate has a good chance of surviving if it hasn't been overheated. There are loads of aftermarket Japanese components available, for less that OE prices.

You're in for one hell of a job. In the old days you could buy a tranny ECU called Compushift (if I remember correctly). This would run the auto box without the necessary vehicle ECU inputs and control signals. I'm fairly sure you can swap the entire valve block from the non electronic 4HP22...

These are also referred to as "Speedy Sleeves".