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You mean the sender? The 300 is a metric thread but I forget exactly what. The 200 is not metric. I'm not sure what you're up to, but... If you're wanting to put a 300 into an earlier 110, you need to replace both the sender and the gauge as a pair. The green band (if the 300 was from a...

If he has been paid out, he is no longer in the driving seat. I don't know the details, but, if someone has bought a car off you, it's theirs. If they offer you until sundown to decide if you want to buy it back, that's the offer. Saying "you're having more time" when it's someone else's car...

If I had one to copy, then I don't think it would be an issue, but, at present, all I have is a few photos off the web. I think (don't know) that puma doors are different again, so I figure the chances of me finding a random local td5 with the ducting isn't that great. I mean, my friend has a...

If I want to fit wiring conduit between the door and the a post, I'd use this part - But.. holes? Is there a template about or do I have to make it up as I go along? Thank you.

You've given me the fear now, so I went and checked - I mean this is a 3rd party and the arms do seem to be different part numbers. Is it because they're poly bush that the difference is at the axel end, and with a split bush, it doesn't matter? If that's the case (it might not be!) I'm...

Hmm... Thinking about it, I had a flowflex bush set for my disco. Never got around to fitting them... They're now on my 300 defender arms. I'm pretty sure I checked the part numbers of the bush set before just randomly shoving them in!

You're right. Does that matter if you are doing the axel and the arm as a set? Or do you mean that it's fatter where it bolts up to the chassis at the back?

I don't disagree with any of the above, but, if you're going to diy, then a low current DC clamp ammeter over one of the battery leads and keep pulling fuses until you see the numbers change. I don't have the wiring diagram in my head, but, I suspect, the alternator runs though one of the maxi...

If you choose to keep it, disco 300 front axel is the same as the defender 300 front (as far as I'm aware). There's a chap in gunnislake who breaks discos. Like just a hobbiest rather than a proper commercial breaker. His pricing is nowhere near Barney what's his name down at that place...

This was on fb for 2k. I mentioned it to a friend who has an, umm, challenged, td5 90 but he didn't have 2k in his back pocket. I guess it won't be 2k on Facebook any more.

Apologies, one question I forgot to ask - I think you said "HD" steering stuff? Are we talking gwyn lewis "HD" or britpart "HD"? I still can't get my head around the specific bending that would be required to keep one wheel straight (with the steering centered) whilst the other pointed out...

My prior point is that you won't know the physical detail before tomorrow morning, so then surely, all you have to work with is best and worst case financials? I think it is, therefore, a financial decision?

If I saw a cat s 1989 on eBay for 6k I'd not touch it with a barge pole. But you know what you've spent on it etc so, I suspect, if I was in your position, I'd buy it back... But none of this is based on what's wrong with it!

Cat s (so far as I'm aware) could just be paint damage on a cheap car. I don't think it implies anything other than economics? The other ones are for "this is so shagged it would be a danger to get back on the road". Cat s is just money, isn't it? (That doesn't mean it's not stuffed, but I...

Something else in the mix - A donor 1989 isn't mega bucks. So you could get rid of the cat s marker for some (but not loads) of money by buying a rusting wreck and moving all your shiny bits to it.

The other thing to consider is if you could just pass it on IF the chassis turned out to be stuffed. Again I don't know the market for shiny stuff, but would you get £6k for it on eBay with an honest description if it was the chassis? I mean I know it's hassel but as a failsafe?

I had one on the floor of the garage that I needed to change. Wasn't budging at all. Someone said to keep dousing it in penetrating fluid every day for a week or two. I've never had much luck with magic potions and had no confidence, but had nothing to lose, so, I did as advised and it worked.

Look at it this way, (and again, I don't know the numbers) Say you got a 10k payout and the buy back is 6k, 4k would be enough to swap the chassis again, depending on diy or paying. But then would the car be 10k as a cat s? If you got a 15k payout, then 4k would be enough to do the chassis...

I bent the track rod just by hitting a curb and it sent the wheels all over the place. But it was a cheap britpart one. If he's fitted HD stuff (depending on how HD that actually is) then I guess something else would break first. I get mixed up with the names of the steering components but, I...

And it's a cat s then? 6k seems a lot. But then you may have had it covered for a lot and 6k is whatever the percentage works out at. Probably can't really make the choice without knowing what the payout is though. Not that that is what you were asking at all! Sorry.