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That's strange. Do you mean it's oversize, or there are bits there that shouldn't be?

Any ideas? Have I got unfeasibly large CVs or are they standard size?

Yep

OK, I think I've found the problem. I bit the bullet and dismantled everything again. This is as far as the CV can go into the new Bearmach swivel. Not very! This is how far it can go into the old swivel. It can go in so far that the machined face of the halfshaft can actually go beyond the...

Ah, ok. I didn't realise that. If it had been offset I had wondered if putting it in backwards might have pulled everything inwards a bit. But obviously not. Plus it was in correctly anyway!

By wonky I mean the offset upper pin bush that has to go into the swivel ball in a certain direction. One side is narrower than the other. I understand later versions were symmetrical. The CV seats fine into the stub axle. I'll have to check the CV in the old swivel ball tomorrow evening. I'll...

Any help is much appreciated. And as far as I'm concerned there are no wrong paths at this point!

Thanks. I've checked the part number I ordered from Bearmach and the kit listed on the invoice is BK0158 for 'up to K reg etc.' so seems right. It came with the 'wonky' upper pin bush which is correct for the year. I don't know if the wrong combination was fitted previously though. What's the...

Still banging my head against a wall here. Could it be some sort of incompatibility between the new swivel ball and the CV joint? I've found a few references to a brass bushing on older CVs that doesn't seat properly in newer balls, but my CV doesn't have one. The CV seems to be seated fine on...

I'm rebuilding the swivels on my 1993 Defender 90 and the stub axle won't go back onto the swivel once the halfshaft and CV are in position. There's a 2mm gap all the way around where the stub axle should meet the swivel. If I tighten it up everything locks solid and the swivel won't turn. I've...

I've taken the coward's route of buying a ready-made brake pipe kit so that rules out the rubber tube. We'll see if I live to regret it!

Great idea, thanks. As Land Rover are asking £50 for a single genuine clip that looks like the bargain of the century!

I'm now at the stage in my rebuild where I can fit new brake pipes to the rear axle of my 1993 Defender 90 (with drum brakes), but the previous fixing clips have disintegrated and I'm not sure how best to fix the new pipe. The parts diagrams show two items - 577873 and 11820L, but these are...

Honestly, it's not all that tricky. Strip them down, give them a clean with a wire wheel, spend a bit of time clearing any crap out of the piston housings so the seals locate properly, mask off the housings with circles of cardboard then give them a spray with caliper or high temperature paint...

The axles are almost back together, held up briefly as I tore the place apart looking for the four 5/16" BSF nuts I'd ordered six months ago, carefully filed away in a corner and forgotten about. Surely it wouldn't be beyond the realms of common sense to include them with the new wheel...

I did thin down the GIO too as it wouldn't spray particularly well initially. I didn't warm the tin as there were thinners handy but that might have done too. The first time I used RE it was winter and it wouldn't spray at all without being immersed in boiling water. My problem was that I found...

I did two coats. Started at one end and worked my way along. Much like painting the Forth Bridge, by the time I got to the far end the paint was dry and I was able to start again and give it a second coat, but it was fairly unscientific. Where it looked a bit thin I gave it a bit extra, and some...

Just a quick update. I forgot my phone on one of the more productive days so there aren't as many photos as I'd have liked, but hopefully you'll get the idea. I've discovered the problem with the compressor - a leaking pressure switch, which probably accounts for some of the difficulties I've...

That all looks very familiar, although I didn't get a bird's nest in mine. Good luck. I'll be following this with interest.

To be honest I didn't find the pressure made much difference. I think it was probably about 80psi but I found only the initial burst of air from the gun was enough to spray the paint. Holding the trigger down meant the paint stopped. Consequently I had to do the whole coat of RE in short bursts...