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Who knows? This rebuild has dragged on so long I've forgotten most of the stuff I did at the beginning!

Wow, that's a bit pricey, but if it works then it's probably worth it. I've had a look at the Paint Man Underframe Black, which sounds like it might be suitable. This is the current state of the axles. We live a mile or so from the sea, so perhaps there's a bit more salt in the air than in some...

Interesting to know how the rust encapsulation works. It was actually top coated with Buzzweld's CIO paint - I hadn't just left it in primer, but pretty much everything I used this on has now rusted through. There was only a couple of days between applying the primer and the topcoat so it can't...

That's really helpful, thanks. I'll give it a try. The hose is a fairly substantial rubber one, not sure of diameter but it's not one of the coil jobs, and I've used euro fittings throughout to give a better flow. I forgot to mention that I've got an inline filter between the hose and the spray...

I've just painted my new bulkhead, which is my first time using a compressor and spray gun in anger, and I've been having problems. I've got a Clarke AP14GF gravity feed HVLP gun and whatever I try the maximum fan pattern is pretty small and it doesn't seem to be putting enough paint on at once...

In what might be in the running for most drawn out restoration, I've finally got some progress to report. Home-made spray booth assembled Remove crusty old foam seals from the vent flaps Etch primer Normal primer Blue Undercoat (yikes!) And finally, two coats of Paintman Ultraspeed...

Just finished digging the footings. I hit bedrock at ground level and had to spend my weekends chiselling through it just to replace it with 6" of concrete. Madness! Oh, Land Rover stuff? Regrettably, not much.

Tell me about it. This weekend I'm digging the foundations for our house extension. Ironically I have to have the Landy finished (or at least driveable and weatherproof) before we start building the walls in April next year, because once they're up, they're too close to the existing garage...

Regrettably not. The bulkhead is all ready, but it's just too bloody cold and damp to attempt it at the moment. I've assembled a spray booth in the garage, but just need a dry day when I can stick a fan heater and a dehumidifier in and try to get the temperature up to something sensible.

Same here. I renovated an entire house and people told me it looked great, but all I could see were a couple of ripples in the plaster, a tiny scratch on a kitchen unit and a bathroom tile that wasn't spaced correctly (plus the patio slabs that weren't quite in line with the house). In the end I...

Several thousand spot welds drilled out and the rear quarter panel finally came off Then off with the gearbox (again) Which firstly proved that there was no problem with the crankshaft oil seal, but also allowed me to fit the Britannica Restorations Super Duty clutch fork which I splashed...

It's not bolted in so I assume it's welded, but it's very neat. The end is threaded and there's a tiny bit that goes through into the box itself. Nitrous injection? 😄

I've seen it on a few now, having scoured the internet looking for a filter box in reasonable condition. Looks like it was probably on the early 200Tdi, but gone by the time mine was made (about November 1992)

Any idea what this second small pipe is for on the 200Tdi air filter box? The photo shows both my old knackered one and the replacement one, which has an additional sticky-outy bit.

Thanks, I think! A house move and loads of DIY projects threw a spanner in the works but I'm getting back on track. I'll find some time to post another update soon. Paint arriving on Monday so hopefully a painted bulkhead before too long, then things should start looking a bit more convincing.

+1 for the LED bulbs. I upgraded mine over 15 years ago. I just went for standard bulbs (which at the time was a very cold blue) so the dashboard light is more blue than green which I prefer.

200Tdi harness uses old-school lumps of rubber with bullet connectors and direct wiring into the lights, whereas the 300Tdi has slightly more modern hard plastic plugs and connectors that allow you to disconnect the lights.

If it comes out easily enough I'd check the hole to see that it's round before you tighten it. It should be fairly obvious if there's any sort of irregular shape. I suspect there is wear, or somehow the joint is the wrong one. In the photo the castellated nut doesn't look like it could be...

The drop arm ball joint has a taper on the pin that connects it to the drag link, so maybe it's not done up tightly enough. Take it off and see what the hole diameter is compared with the pin going through. If the hole has worn into a slot then the only realistic option is a new part. Have a...

I've discovered what the problem was. There were actually three bolt lengths instead of two. Two of the short bolts were about 5mm longer and this was enough to bottom out in the holes they'd been put in. Given that I was really careful putting the bolts back in their original positions first...