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So I personally would suspect either the ring or the cable are possibly dodgy.

If I'm pressure washing at the front, or in the engine bay, I tend to have the engine warm and running to help dry out errant splashes and take the car for a quick run out afterwards, hoping the engine heat helps to prevent this sort of problem.

Wes talks about some of the problems on this video, particularly between around four to ten minutes in. Well worth a watch:

A full tank gets me 420-440 mostly motorway miles, and not really a great deal less around the doors before the light comes on. That is around 60 litres, IIRC. If you find out you do have very bad fuel economy, then check for binding brakes, and a properly functioning turbo as two major culprits...

Probably would be helpful to state the year and type of Freelander, fuel, engine size, etc.

Have a search for PNH500190. Or take a look at this ebay listing...

Probably disconnect the battery before starting, just to make sure it doesn't throw a code when you disconnect the electrical connector. Not sure on anything else of the job. Vacuum bleeding or pressure bleeding may be needed, rather than just pump and pray.

My absolutely must have kit is one of my magnetic pick-up tools for all of the nuts, bolts, spanners and sockets I drop through onto the undertray.:oops:

What engine did you get in the US version of the Freelander?

Failed the MOT inspection. :( Fuel tank cradle and I seem to have lost a clamp from my newly fitted CV joint boot.

Any noticeable difference in your gearchanges? Changing the gearbox oil on my old Avensis made 1st and 2nd much smoother to select and less notchy.

Yes, you can inflate a flat tyre without jacking the vehicle. Also, I had to get a new trolley jack when I got the Freelander 1 as my old one didn't have a high enough lift to get the bottom of the tyres off the ground! You may need to keep an eye out for that when sourcing a jack.

A lot of Chinese sellers are keeping UK/EU stock for faster delivery at a little extra on the price. They still list their Chinese business address, so that listing is fairly typical. Nodge, if you do try heating the ECU, don't forget a freezer spray on it to see if the fault returns.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-radio-stereo-Aerial-adaptor-convertor-Din-to-Iso-Antenna-adaptor-new/140731903379?hash=item20c4466d93:g:nv0AAOxyrjZRqkD5 may be what you want.

Could have a look at these guys: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/

The glow plugs generally wire to a common power rail, so even though an ECU could tell there was a fault from the overall resistance/current drawn, it would have no way to tell which particular plug or plugs had a fault. Personally, I would try giving the control unit for the injectors a warm-up...

Did you use an OEM sensor or a cheap replacement? If you still have the old sensor, does the fault change when this is re-fitted?

You will also find them listed as Speed Nuts.

You usually just get a socket and bar or a spanner onto the nut on the tensioner idle wheel. It's spring loaded and should move enough to allow you enough slack to route the new belt wherever it needs to go. Also, I'll not upset you by mentioning that I got a Gates belt for less than £13 on...

I personally still suspect that you are losing just enough compression that the cylinder fails to fire and once the engine warms up, the tolerances tighten up enough to cut the compression loss and the cylinder starts firing. I could be wrong and often am, but that is my current theory.