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Watching this thread with interest. I bought a boost pin a while back, but have not fitted it until I have an EGT gauge which is on the way from China (turbo gauge already installed). My main concern is the amount of smoke - above the "normal" - that I may generate. I really don't want to be...

Me too. They dry faster.

It doesn't look like a difficult job. Once you've got the door off and stripped and cut out the red bits, the replacement metal is relatively easy to make up and you could do this yourself with care (and the incentive to save cash). Once that's done, take it to a jobbing welder who could fix it...

Zoom out a bit so we can see the Big Picture? I'm guessing it's the front passenger door, but maybe a second-row? Everything can be fixed, but the variables are how much you want to spend or how clever/skilful you are.

Nice. Great survival aid - after a week or so you can wring them out and drink the water they'll soak up.;)

OK, maybe so, but I wouldn't assume that this is the problem. Certainly, if the problem isn't there at slow speed but gets progressively worse as you accelerate (and this is hard to feel), I'd not be convinced that wheel balance is the real culprit here. I thought the same, had a "massively out"...

If you're intending to go anywhere remote, I'd stick with stock springs and dampers unless there's a really good reason not to.

As above...welcome aboard. BUT a Ford Kuga....? Not yours, right? Dumped there?

Hundreds of threads on loads of forums about this particular snag. I know, coz I had the same and did the "search". Turned out to be a shredded Panhard rod bush that was new but incorrectly fitted, so failed quickly. I had TWO landy dealers check my truck over and neither found it, but I did...

Is the place that's doing the work going to insure it against the likely risks? I'd have thought that if it's on their premises and gets damaged/stolen, your insurance company might well refer you to the garage insurance anyway.

This is all getting a bit worrying...

Can I have your lottery numbers?- you don't need 'em now you've won!;)

Like he ^ said. You can't cheat on this.

Sorry, I should've asked how old your truck is. Mine's a '95 and thus ancient tech.

I'm no expert on roof bling, but I'm pretty sure that this isn't a "genuine", ie OEM, Defender rack. I had one which I believe was OEM. It was 1 inch tubular steel, had curved transitions between horizontal and vertical elements, the "basket" went all the way around and the ladder was 1 inch...

I'm sure these guys are fine although I haven't researched them nor read reviews. As an alternative, have you considered going solo with a Vibraction roadbook? I did the Med-Atlantic Pyrenees traverse 2 years ago and it was a fine trip, lots of remote area driving and greenlaning. Books in...

Dunno if this helps but I've just done this job. Parts used on a 1995 Defender were: AMR -3676 motor. Don't get a Br*tpart one. I did. Mistake. - 3932 seal x2 - 3933 washer - 3934 nut x 1 NH108041L M8 nut x 1, although I didn't actually buy that- any M8 nut will do. and...

OK. Will follow with interest. Post a link here when you start?

You might want to get the type that have Dzus fasteners and hinges so you can get at the headlights more easily for cleaning etc. I've used both, and prefer the quick-release.

Be interested to hear what works. I need to replace my indicator/flasher switch soon, and I know from previous attempts that the Mallet Method to get the wheel off ain't gonna shift it.