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Absolutly half full :D I like to have things, as they should be. So my battery volt must be fixed. I ain't paying 300quid for a new same battery next year :D

Well i have purchased the regulator. I suppose this should fully charge my battery. I read that 12.4volt is considerer charged, but 12.6 should be full full. It was just 3 screws on the back of the alternator rigth? Anything to take care off? No need for taking other parts off? :)

But, i dont have a lead calcium battery. I have a lead acid? @Datatek i had a lead calcium before, but that battery was bad.. i discharged it several times troubleshoting etc Im very confused. This is the battery i have...

So should i buy the voltage regulator, and swap it out. Will that say i have a 14.3-4 volt regulator on my car? Or is it just a old 14.7 slowly screaming its last time? Why would my battery not fully re-charge when it's rechargin 14.3-3.6 ish volts from alternator? Is this perhaps due to my...

Did a quick test. Had 12.43 volt (engine been off for 20hours) Started it up, measured volt go to 14.2 then slowly up to 14.36 after a few seconds idling. Had lights on, radio on. doesnt that seem fine?

VR-VW010?

Does any one know which i should buy? Its easy to replace the regulator rigth? Heard its just 2-3 screws at the back of the unit? Anything to take care off? Whilst im doing this, should i perhaps renew my electrical cables? ( - and + from battery?) Any ready cuts available? :D im about to...

cheers for all the replies, i will check tomorow. Probably due to swap out the regulator, heck maybe even the brushes?? I mounted a quite decently sized subwoofer in the back with amp... 700watt amplifier... (at max volume obv) back 4 months ago. I believe my alternator has run abit harder...

I am going to check the voltage tomorow- What would be expected voltage at battery before i start it up and whilst running? I think its approx 13.6 at idle if im not unsure. Was 13.6 when i fitted it atleast :D

so my alternator is poo poo then, i believe this was changed back in 2018, perhaps a used part who knows.

The battery is a new one. A solid battery. 110AH 1000CCA I have not changed my voltage regulator on my alternator, i was recommended this to up the voltage but idk?? Battery leads should be fine, i re-did the terminal connectors to fit the new battery (worked toppers for over a month)

I'm back at it again :cool: My range rover just wanted to throw me a **** pass. Again (p38 2.5dse 97 for thoose who dont remember :D) Whenever i take ignition on or off, dashboard gives me a "Gearbox Fault" No codes logged in nanocom, neither EDC, or gearbox ECU has logged any faults...

Got a new battery, waterpump, thermostat, radiator, drivebelts, pulleys, tensioner.. New viscous fan, old was stuck as ****

Been a while since last update on the rangie.

Okay, so just a small update, i am going to remove the instrument cluster and check if the wires are ok, i got a suggestion that as the car heats up the solders might get bad, and as this issue occurs when it does get heaten up, so i am going to check the solders behind the instrument cluster. I...

what was your method? I only seen Rangerollers method. Is it the same? In my understanding there are several ways, a hammer way and a gauge precision way? :D Thank you all for helping me, very appriciated :)

I really don't like it either I've heard of diesel runaways. Scary things. I've flushed the intercooler with diesel. Also cleaned intake once past month. Engine otherwise sounds healthy at idle! even another P38 owner said my engine were sounding smooth..

But now as i changed the waterpump and thermostat i did take off the earth cable from the head. As the coolant return pipe o ring leaked, i had to take the earth cable off, due to it being mounted on the return pipe bracket. I did however clean the connection on it. I also noticed greenish...

The only thing i can recall doing before making the gauge go bananas, was 1: Intake off, 1 glowplug off, glowplug on. (to test if it works, and yes) 2: Heater matrix O rings 3: Using nanocom to put my car into EARLY EDC, rendering my car useless for 1 week because i didnt find out its suppose...

Am i wrong in saying, that as my car is out of timing it will work harder to achieve my "speed goals" ? Could it be something with this which makes my car run sligthly hotter aswell? The temp gauge, idk what to do with that no more, i am not an electrician. I just find it all odd. I took on...