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i didn't know that but a slight smear on the metal i wouldn't think would hurt you could try normal hand soap when i was a shot blaster i always had a bar to hand for rubbing into holes in wagan tanks if when you blasted them they pin holed

it's normal the only issue i find is that when you use the glow setting it sometimes knocks the permament feed to my radio off and i have reset the clock i'm doing a full rebuild so i'll be wiring the radio differently this time

why don't you want to use silicone -either grease or oil for o rings rubber to plastic or metal silicone is what i use the only issue with a silicone lubricant is it doesn't lube metal to metal and promotes galling

can you get decent seals these days though

that looks like the normal position to me but it's a while since i fitted a 200 to my turbo diesel might be worth checking rad fins aren't blocked and your thermostat is opening

on a std axle it can be fitted without cutting from memory the salibury type front axles had a precut seal designed to be joined not the std one that needed cutting and the tensioner altering so it could be joined together as i said i've done it that way it works but imo a bit of a bodge

i can't help but think they've sent out a std 90 set not a +2" 110 set i'll hopefully be able to speak to someone at the suppliers today to get to the bottom of it

i've done the ball seal by doing a full strip removing the full assembly and just cutting the seal the cut way is a bit of a bodge but quick and easy to do removing the full assembly is a pain to get the long side back in the best way is to do a full strip and rebuild

i'm rebuilding my 110 and have just bought a set of plus 40mm hoses and whilst the front are close to my original plus 2" ones the rear is miles too short when i removed the axle i cut the rear flexi so have nothing to compare it to, so if anyone has a set of either std or plus 2 hoses to hand...

never had much luck stopping leaks on my diesel engined landy but no leaks on my v8 auto

i had a similar issue it was the release fork but not the usual pivot point but the two lugs that press on the thrust bearing had come off and was not allowing the clutch to fully release

if you can afford it replace it as repairing one is time consuming and you'll never get rid of the rot

bit of old ply wood

mine was delivered to me yesterday and the quality seems good as does construction not as impressed with the buzzweld gio as i struggled to get it to spray from my gun when i did a test of it so i gave it all a brush coat straight from the tin it went on carp very see through even on an area...

been waiting for mine 5 weeks over due now from the original quoted delivery date when the order was placed they gave a 2-3 week delivery time lying bast&rds if it wasn't for the fact my local shop who ordered it had paid in full i'd have told them to not bother as if they can't keep their word...

not sure how it'll play out then and it won't be till i get the engine and box sat in the chassis i can fabricate a new mount for the n/s out or make the exhaust

Cheers i was told the defender and disco r380 boxes had the same bellhousing but the person telling me only thought they were My 110 was originally a turbo diesel and i later fitted a 200 but it is getting a bit worn so i opted for a low mileage 300 and box

i'm currently rebuilding my 1990 110,i've ordered a 300 galv chassis as i'm fitting a 300 engine and box from a discovery in it and at the time of ordering the chassis i wasn't aware that the transferbox would be further forward so i'd have to swap props and use the 300 tunnel can the transfer...

work 110 that is currently in lots of pieces spread out through the workshop whilst i'm awaiting it's new chassis

v8 auto