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Thanks guys, I ordered the coreteco seal as advised and will fit that next week when it comes, will be getting my first coat of black on chassis tonight and axle. Also ordered my footwells and bulkhead repair sections too so that I can start that at the end of next week or so. I knows it a long...

Do you mean on the drive or taking over my kitchen for painting pieces haha

Thanks Steve, yeah I'm really Happy with the springs. They will need a final touch up of paint on the edges once installed but that's the least of my jobs just now. Il get a new seal ordered in the next day or so for diff. Next I'm onto painting chassis and back axle with 2 coats of black before...

Meant to ask, the mileage is around 32k and when I had an old experienced mechanic look over engine etc, he seamed to think it was genuine going by the lack of wear and tear (apart from the chassis back half being rotted out) . Going on that would you expect the drive pinion to be badly worn on...

Great cheers, will investigate further. Some photos of progress so far.. The last one is the springs put back together before tightening minus the final couple of clamps I still need to make for each.

Quick question, I'm needing to replace the seal on my rear diff, noticing oil seeping from the input where the prop shaft enters diff, I was online looking, is it the diff input seal I'm looking for? Can see them but just wanted to check before ordering. Cheers.

Cheers. Will do, il ensure I put them in 4x4 regularly to keep them operating and lubricated.

Cheers guys, I do have free wheeling hubs and I now realise if I change them to 4x4 that should engage the prop to drive the front wheels?

I do have free wheeling hubs and in assuming if I slot them Into 4x4 that will engage it? Cheers

Feel free to slate me for my Lack of knowledge here... I was underneath today cleaning the gearbox crossmember off in readiness for painting over the next few days. I noticed when the two front wheels are on the ground, the front prop shaft can turn freely, can't get my head around whether or...

Steve, yeah there is a couple if clamps missing, going to fabricate new ones before reassembling. Thanks

Cheers, yeah they all seem pretty good. Going to do the same to the shackles etc tomorrow. Axle to get its first coat of primer tomorrow too! After that il get on with priming the chassis over the next week or so.

Onto rear springs. Split them apart and wire wheeled them to get all the old crud off. They came up really good. Cleaned them and gave two coats of red oxide and il give them a coat of black afterwards. Then get them put back together with new bolts that I had ordered, good as new. Almost!

Welds improving. I think? Slag coming off the top nice and easy now.

Cheers guys for all the pointers etc, had anther go this afternoon with better results, il get some photos later. Thanks, mark

Ok cheers, to be honest I was doing well with decent beads on the new steel when I was setting up and having a few practice runs. It was just the new steel to old chassis that was proving more difficult. If you think the strength would be compromised il grind out the two sides and redo tomorrow...

Thanks for that, I was struggling as it was tending to blow holes if I wasn't careful, any tips?

Cheers will do, il do that before I fully weld it in place. Going to give it all two coats of red oxide before a black topcoat. Any recommendations for topcoat? I've red chassis black and por15 on the forum? What's the most popular and best for the job?

Got the other chassis leg repaired and offered up the rear half chassis this afternoon. Next time I'm out il tac it in place, then check all the dimensions again then fully weld it in place.

I understand it's probably stronger not ground off but I had to in this case as my new half chassis slips over the first 5/6 inches and then gets welded to existing, then I plan on surface fish plating over next half chassis onto existing and leaving welds as they are.