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That's so true...

Yes, I've got some... bear with, bear with...

We were talking about this very subject over on LRUK a while back and what to do about the double skin bottom. This is what I suggested: Turn the tank upside down and stuff a hot air blower in one of the holes to heat up the whole tank. Pour some Waxoyl or Dinitrol or something similar onto the...

Yours is a good idea, I did the same when I had a noise issue in my gearbox. I rebuilt a suffix D box and swapped it into my Land Rover, the existing box was a suffix A. I then stripped the A box, determined the fault and fixed it, (A loose set-bolt in the end of the layshaft). The rest of the...

This is the tyre changer machine I made:

I can't see why it needs a relay to switch on a lousy 5w bulb but it has one and I can't be bothered to figure it out. I would certainly not bother with the relay if I had it to do over again. All I know is that mine has the relay and the harness to wire it all together.

The relay is a 6RA if that is any help, and it lives behind the little auxiliary panel in the middle where the 'Brakes' warning light is. John

I don't have a diagram but I do have the following, it's not my work but was passed to me by someone on LRUK when I made a similar request to yours, it was sufficient for my needs as I couldn't find a diagram either: Brake failure warning circuit. The wires from the brake sensors (servo and...

James is right and I withdraw what I said about the master cylinder, the pedal would be floppy if the cylinder was seized because the piston rod would be free to move independently if the mc piston was stuck while pushed forward.

It sounds like something hydraulic has seized, possibly the clutch slave cylinder. Clutch plates do rust to the flywheel if not moved for a long period of time but this wouldn't lead to the pedal being immoveable; the clutch pedal and clutch cover would still operate, it's just that the friction...

My post removed to the proper place... these glitches are getting to be a nuisance.

Yer, yer, yer, yes, I therr thought so, couldn't even get on line last night. Mods, fer fetch a cloth and erase some of those unwanted posts...

What happened there?

I wouldn't powder coat a... a powdered coat - for the reasons already given. A worthless process, a triumph of style over utility. I would paint the new chassis, either let it weather for a bit before painting or apply an etch primer first. A good quality chassis paint would be hard to beat but...

I wouldn't powder coat a... a powdered coat - for the reasons already given. A worthless process, a triumph of style over utility. I would paint the new chassis, either let it weather for a bit before painting or apply an etch primer first. A good quality chassis paint would be hard to beat but...

I wouldn't powder coat a... a powdered coat - for the reasons already given. A worthless process, a triumph of style over utility. I would paint the new chassis, either let it weather for a bit before painting or apply an etch primer first. A good quality chassis paint would be hard to beat but...

I think it's a 1955 first registered in Hampshire and yes, it's definitely worth saving. Is the registration document still in hand?

Wildefalcon is right, it is either genuinely low oil pressure or faulty electrics, most likely a duff oil pressure switch. You need to check the oil pressure with a gauge to rule one or the other out. When the engine is hot, as others have said, the oil gets thin and the oil pressure drops, this...

That's right, it must be left vented to atmosphere.