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Very dead battery. Low voltage does weird things to the ECU.

Thanks!

Sorry, brain-fart, I meant cylinder leak down tester. This: http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html Basically turn the engine until a cylinder in at the top of the compression stroke, squirt air in via the sparkplug or glowplug and see where it goes.

Result!

Know anyone nearby with a leakback tester? With that you should be able to hear where the air is going (airbox, exhaust, out the oil cap, into the coolant...)

I'd expect that a vac leak wouldn't change much whether you used the brake or not, and I'd expect a vac leak to make it idle like a rough pig too ... have you ruled out a sticky or dragging brake? Another problem could be air entering the system after the MAF sensor -- pirate air. Might be...

The fuel filter is under the plastic in the right-hand rear wheel arch. With the vacuum test, spraying over a leak with carb cleaner will cause the engine to rev up, if you use water it will stumble (and you'll hear a sucking sound). Give the plug on the MAF a spritz with WD40 or similar and try...

Might be worth unplugging the MAF sensor and seeing if there's a difference. It costs nothing. If you think it might be a vacuum leak, you could go testing that (with water or something like carb cleaner).

Worth checking the filter on the turbo solenoid too. That smoke on startup is probably a dribbling injector but I doubt that's causing the issue. There's then all the usual suspects such as fuel filter, MAF sensor, the low pressure fuel pump, air filter. Does your OBD2 code reader give live data?

Checked the oil level in the auto box? When you say delay, do you mean sluggish RPM or slow in starting to to move?

Is it the immobilizer or the B10A2 code? Have you cleared the trouble codes?

True, but if it's hoopa-jooped then it's hoopa-jooped. If I'd spun the crank 720 and didn't feel any lockups then I'd go for it. If it lights, it lights, and everything is OK and I get on with life. If it doesn't then that's the time to worry about timing.

I'd start it without worry.

It's not a problem. The engine will be fine. It's one of those myths that Haynes manual jockeys spew all the time.

Bad batteries can cause all sorts of weirdnesses to happen. If it works, it works. Happy motoring!

Did you check the new cables against the old ones? I bought a set last year and one side wouldn't lock. Bottom line, it was the wrong cable.

Given the adjuster an adjust?

Thanks GF21 for the info.

You don't wanna know...

Man that's bad. Is their warranty a no quibble one where you send em a photo and a copy of the receipt and you get a replacement, or when where you have to dick around?