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Another is that from the factory the water pump gasket is part of the timing cover gasket, so you have to trim it off. Then there's the possibility of snapping one of those bolts in the block...

One reason might be having to doof about with the belts. I'll have to get "a round to it" on this job soon, but when I do I'm going for the water pump.

I'm going with longdog on this ... the thermostat seems like a total *&#@, but the waterpump seems like a much easier target. And since they've both done 100,000+miles, the wp is prolly feeling tired.

I NEED TO KNOW!!!!!

Dab of hot snot (hot glue) on the plug maybe.

If it works the gently close the bonnet and back away slowly! ;)

Might be the auto box or transfer box, but could also be an engine/gearbox/axle mount that shot.

The 2003 Freelander TD4 fuel pump (going by the VIN not number plate) is behind the plastic in the RH rear wheelarch (if it's a 2002 model then that has two pumps, one on the tank that's accessible from an access hole in the boot, and one under the bonnet).

Can you hear the fuel pump during a KOEO (key on engine off)? The CMP (camshaft position sensor) gets a lot of blame for this issue but every time I've seen a hippo with your symptoms it's been the fuel pump. If you don't want to just hang parts on it, do some power and ground tests at the FP...

depends how bad it was. I got a few percent improvement. A bigger improvement is the performance boost and better running at idle.

Yup, you can. Won't harm anyone.

I suggest getting Beru glow plugs. Deffo not the Britpart crap!

A quick test for the MAF if you have a scan tool is to watch the MAF while giving the engine a snap of the throttle to 100%. You should see the airflow rise rapidly with the snapping of the throttle then a rapid return to normal.

It'll come off. It's a metal collar that's been split in four. Give it a side-to-wiggle!

Have you had the cap tested? Pretty much every old one I test doesn't stand up to the rated pressure, which means it slowly boils off the coolant. They're only a few quid new and if you don't have a tester and there are no obvious leaks, an the cap is old, I'd throw a new cap on...

Nope, TD4 injectors don't need the ECU to be reprogrammed. Any TD4 injector will do.

If the crank is boogered you migth be able to get a Speedi Sleeve that'll fit http://www.skf.com/uk/products/New-Market-Offers/SKF-SPEEDI-SLEEVE-new-generation.html

If you pull the dipstick or undo the oil cap with the engine running do you see a old chip shop smokey joe? I'd be looking towards the PCV have three oil seals.

"Any advice" Yeah, you got slit on the airflow meter ;) What Land Rover are we talking about?

I'm not familiar with the 1.8 PCV system, but have you checked that the breather isn't blocked? Are you fitting the seals dry? How chewed up is the crank? You say a small mark, but it is a chip or gouge or what?