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Most radio fittings have a plastic surround, that pops off, to make it look nice, behind that is a metal box that actually holds the radio. It's held in by having some of the side tags bent back so they grip the opening. The radio itself is normally held in this box by a couple of sprung tags...

To replace the matrix you're going to have to take the heater box out, so firstly do that (do a search here for how to do it) The matrix comes out quite easily once the box is out, so before you buy a new one have a look at the old and see if you can't flush it out or see if there's something...

Welcome to the wonderful world of Land Rover! Your second picture is just a blanking plate, depending if it's LHD or RHD which side it's on (obviously the one not into the heater. The third is similar to what you already have and lots of debate about whether they work better than the original...

So post No1 says "I do NOT want to lift it"... which is why folks recommended standard LR. What changed your mind? Malcolm

My '95 300Tdi hasn't even got the brackets for one on the chassis! Malcolm

You can soak it in releasing fluid for a week, thump it with hammers, on the side on the 2 "ears", with a long drift for a few days but unless you're lucky will end up cutting it off - so save some aggro and cut it off! Malcolm

Yeah, I've got one of those syringe thingeys. If the oils too thick it forces it's way past the washer and you get 50% squirt back on your arm, and if it's too thin it just leaks past the washer and........ :(

I've just done my hard top and, like you, didn't want a lift so went for standard Land Rover springs (reasonable price) then ashamed to admit :o put Brit***rt shocks on. The springs seemed hard compared to the old knackered one's but soon settled down. The shocks were awful so I replaced them...

Try ALR5980 for the outer seal. Can't find the channel. Malcolm

I had some success by aralditing some pop rivets (minus the pin) into the holes. The heads of some are the same size that fits the bits that go into the door frame. Then slide the semicircular ones on and press them into the holes in the door. The design of the fittings is awful though, as...

7th letter on mine is A, although it's got all of the above bits in it! Mind you it is a hard top and was down as a "root crop harvester":confused::confused: when I got the V5. Told DVLA that it was a standard hard top and they sent it back as a "hatchback". Malcolm

Check the rubber hoses that go between the injectors. Mine were severely age cracked and allowed diesel to drip onto the head gasket area and down, taking muck with it and looking like the head gasket/rocker cover were leaking. An easy job to replace them. Malcolm

Or go for the Mantec one's. Pretty substantial with holes all across the top so you can mount things to them. They fit well with not a lot of stand off- but can't get into multi storey car parks with them on. Malcolm

Yeah, but does it move now?

Your original switch never had illumination which is why you have to add the red/white wire, hence also didn't have an earth for the illumination, pin 7. The instruction Table I got clearly says "Pin 3, Green, Link to Pin 5 " Plus it also says Pin 7 Earth and Pin 8 Red/White sidelight...

Just remembered that the switch does not light the red led as it comes. I took it apart and modified it to make that work. The switch however, did wire up as per the instructions and worked straight away. How are you getting on?

From full left lock two whole turns centralises the box. Malcolm

Mine worked straight away, wiring wasn't a problem. The red/white wire, I think, is for the green illumination. The switch that MUDSTUFF sells is the one I have and is specific for Defenders. It wipes/washes, the red light comes on and the green illumination comes on with the instrument...

The bracket came with the "Sumo Bars" and you can get them from Gwyn Lewis. The steering damper is a Boge o.e. part. The bracket has to go very near the end of the bar to be in the original position and get equal movement of the damper. All together and just waiting for a new lock washer and...

Just make sure you get a decent one! Mine went when the clip that holds the cable to the head broke so I got a new cable - it was cr*p. Whilst it looked fine, the inner caught against the outer at the slightest bend and at the head the needle swung +/- 20mph. I managed to repair the old one and...