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Being mine is a Early Discovery mk1 all my window seals are rubber, they are all available but are pattern Parts so don’t fit as well as the original, The rear cargo side rubbers don’t fit correctly under the interior trim but they do seal out the rain which is way more important, I also used 3...

If it was me I would remove the body completely, yes it’s more work initially but then you can sort out the chassis with no problems, Likewise the chassis is rollable and sorting out the axle also wouldn’t be a problem, Your biggest problem is getting it hoisted safely at a height that allows...

Tracking down a coil or distributor cap is very common when damp, a very easy way to get back on the road is using a sharp knife clean ( scrape) back the insulator to good material and you are good to go, Prolonged tracking causes a fine carbon track to form, perfect for lazy electricity to...

A good long 1/2 drive breaker bar with a impact socket should be more than adequate, Putting the socket on to the wheel nut / lug nut and then using a club/ Lump hammer And strike the socket firmly will often loosen the taper on the nut,

Wellcome to the lunyzone

And at least check the points are opening, the points heal to the cam wear down so worth checking,

I brought one of these last year and used it three times on different motors with no problems...

I personally find the sedimenter a great way to stop crap getting as far as the main filter, I check mine every six months, very simple to do and normally find stuff that would have gone on to The main filter, Extra filtration is needed especially if refilling from Jerry cans or the like, IMO

Could be a lots of things, but oil on the clutch plate making it stick could cause it also The spigot bearing on the primary motion shaft could be grabbing, and last but not least the torsion springs On the clutch centre plate could be broken and stopping the plate freewheeling when the clutch...

The way they are cut is very important for a proper fit so use the old rubber for a template,

Check that the front flexible brake pipe hasn’t collapsed internally, If it has the pressure will operate the callipers ok but won’t allow the pressure to dissipate,

This is a good video guide on fitting the seal without using the correct tool, Very informative,

The tool size is Approximate dimensions: Outside diameter 126mm(5"), inside diameter 22mm(0.9"), thickness 23.5mm(0.9") Old tool number: 18G.134-11 so shouldn’t present any problem with getting one turned up,

It would appear to need 18G134-11 seal replacing tool to do the job without damaging the seal,

I personally would use an OEM like Cortico, it’s a lot of work taking out the box to replace a dodgy pattern part, The original seal was EER1535 superseded to EER2532, https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-2532-rear-oil-seal-c2x21124150

Ahhh play nicely :rolleyes:

+1

This should be a 200tdi overhaul manual,

Hi Nodge suggested using the VAG vacuum switch, it would be exactly the same principle as using the One I suggested, The switch is plumbed into the vacuum line, power is supplied to it, when low vacuum the switch Detect a low vacuum and allows power to the pump, as the pump vacuum increases to...

On my small aircraft I had a vacuum system to run some of the instruments and used A vacuum switch to put on a light if I should get a vacuum pump failure, So shouldn’t be to difficult to wire up to your pump through a relay, This was similar to what I used...