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My D1 has done just 48k miles but after 26 years the body looks a bit weathered in the usual places as it been sitting outside, but the chassis is ok never requiring welding or any were else underneath, someone offered me a grand last November he must had a tipoff as it just got its new mot...

Its possible that new owners went did like the colour, and preferred clear over a base micatallic green, like Charleston green, Woodcote green or Epsom green. Coniston green is clear over a base solid. I’ve seen two, both were at a LR main dealer and a one was under the spotlights in the...

A symptom of over fuelling is a lot of black smoke from the exhaust tail pipe, once you get the engine started. The engine management dash light illumination plus the reduction in power is a good indicator of a limp mode, but not the cause, it requires something what is missing, the ECU...

I have a clue on what wiring alterations have be made to the OPs disco, but in the wiring redundancy that a D1 has, there is not a wire for that specific facility in a D1. The only way to have that function in a D1 is install a head unit with that facility or a standalone mobile car kit...

Ok I didn't know that, perhaps because I've never had that issue in my 36 years of using an identical system in my two LRs. Luck or what? 😊

Yes, but I haven’t a clue how it would get blocked.

🤔 have you owned a 3.9? which OPs question is based.

Any thing other than the original Phillips head unit isn’t compatible with the existing loom connectors. The only thing you can do its tap into the existing head unit feeds - as currymunster listed above- that you require which are in the dash, ie, loudspeakers, power, illumination and antenna...

So i assume your not talking about simple nut/bolt bracket holding the filter to the chassis. So, the two fuel pipe glands and the corrosion between them and the alloy filter, corrosion a known issue, even with the early RR, the bottom line is cut the hose either side and install replacement...

If air can get in then the fluid can get out, try bleeding the system, I understand its as simple so undoing the bleed nipple on the top of the steering box and then turn the steering one way to full lock, then the other way to full lock. Anyway Ive never had to do it, even when replacing the...

The D1s multi function unit (MFU) looks after the windscreen wiper sweep delay, so that particular circuit may be iffy, the MFU also handles among other things the delay of the interior lighting, also it has a test function the procedure for that is in various LR forums workshop manua. The10amp...

So as your in an engine forum, whats your question on the engine ?😊 Back in the dark ages 30 + years ago so before forums, one of my RR swivels started leaking, the information was to add a splash of grease into the swivel via the fill or level plug hole. No quantity of grease was given but...

If they were easy then there would be a few reasonable prices reverb units on the market. Its a shame that as its the hart of EDC system for the auto D1 diesel it hasn't been done. Perhaps its another floored LR system fitted to their vehicles as they all seem to have at least one.

As we don't know how long you had your disco or have been using the transfer box, so could it be your not correctly selecting H or L, so vehicle being stationary with engine running tmoving the selector into N first and then insuring it locks in the position you selected, partially left in...

So how do you know the engine is immobilised? is the engine check light illuminate, I don't do diesel but the issue has been mentioned in the past, more than a few times, so a starter, below are a couple links there are more via (Google) which appear to me to be more informative with D1 diesel...

I haven’t left it on a train, I do carry it every day for work, plus my laptop for site meetings sometimes 😊

Something for later may be useful to you Sir. http://www.discovery2.co.uk/pdf_files/D2_electrical_library.pdf https://discoii.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/d2_electricalcircuitdiagrams_2000.pdf

Yes the sliders/wheels can have issues, they look like they’re made of nylon which eventually breaks up. So unless u can find an alternative item to use, as they are not listed as a replacement part, then it‘s a new regulator time. 🙁

A quick splash of WD40 also works, if the jets are stubborn than a pin will bend, use a needle of similar size they are made of harder steel. Send via my iPad on a train.

I believe the Hi-Line installation contains a separate amplifier (maybe not so you can correct me), so the head unit is just a receiver of various inputs. So have you removed/ isolated the amp or intending try using it (assuming its fully functional) with your new head unit and it’s compatible...