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Inspection of "all transmission shafts" was added last year to the MOT, no doubt somewhere in the new manual the fact it is missing now warrants a failure...

Bin the lights on the tailgate if possible and the dodgy looking reflectors, i'd put a gloss black band between the rear light clusters the height of the clusters across the tailgate to break it up a bit along with smithy's bumper and pipe suggestion, along with a re-colour of the roof pillars...

If you have a brief search on google or on here about IRB you'll notice Ian has a 19th century approach to communication, just keep on phoning several times a day and you'll eventually get through - i'm sure nothing is amiss

Not the fastest for dispatch / delivery but i find mister-auto sometimes has a blinding array of OEM options (such as Pierburg, Valeo, Bosch), usually good prices - normally where i find good oem brand filters for the landy and oem brands for my econobox

Dayco is fine, decent enough quality belts. Circoli is a pattern part brand, i'd certainly not risk using them for a critical part like the water pump. I'd buy both varieties of pump from an OEM manufacturer in advance then just send back the one you don't use - got to drive to ECP after all...

Got a 334 95ah in mine, type 334 is the biggest that still fits in the tray easily. https://www.puretyre.co.uk/car-battery-specification-chart/

Sounds like classic lift pump failure, have you changed it before or is it original? Have a search on the forum and you'll see pretty much everything else it might be. Wouldn't worry about the bad fuel, probably coincidental if it was a trace amount / teaspoon worth

Sounds about right! If I knew the turbo was the only factor causing that oil collection, then probably not, but if i was just buying that turbo off of a scrap engine and saw that buildup i'd not know it occurred over such a short time frame and probably buy it anyway. Is the EGR still connected...

Oh, that's actually rather a lot then for such a short distance post cleaning. Should be just an oily haze with a few drops collected after such a short distance 985 miles before blackening isn't very far on a rebuilt engine that gets fresh oil constantly, got a pic of the dipstick / oil...

Aye that first pic is "not so good" levels, but the pic of the bottom of the IC is with the new turbo on correct? How many miles of collection occurred before taking that photo? Haha, can't say i've ever heard of that being tried - will be interesting to see if it clears I suppose. And also the...

As I understand it, if you were to do this within a system working as intended, with say 50mls (as 200mls is loads, and some would get churned up and sucked in just by turbulence of the sheer volume in the small 300tdi IC) - then it would almost certainly still all be there after only 250 miles...

The oil vapour that remains suspended will make up 99% of what is burnt, the stuff that builds up and is what is visible upon inspection will for the most part remain as buildup and never end-up being drawn into the engine under usual circumstances, if it never builds up to more than "a bit...

Suppose it wasn't the best explanation, think the comparisons make it harder to read! The short version was = excessive leakage into the intake either via turbo or pcv will cause pooling in the lowest part of the system, eventually. Aye it is entirely possible it is leaking straight out the hot...

The pressure drop effect separates the oil from the air rather than the oil condensing as it hits the IC. The oil vapour starts to condense immediately after it is forced out of the combustion chamber and into the crankcase (via blowby, oil passing from the turbo will condense as soon as it hits...

Everything else came out pretty peachy!, plus if it was a bad hone then that isn't even your fault... (nor is a leaky turbo mind) It's a bit of physics and to some degree the chemistry that makes the oil at work. If your IC was transparent, you'd see the oil mist depositing micro droplets of...

The turbo is still going to pass oil (if it is the problem) unless you remove the turbo entirely which would be a pain, it'll boost straight to atmosphere with no piping afterall. Ah I'd forgotten you'd already tried that. You can get cheapo oil in the 20l shed friendly size containers as you...

Could've been an improperly seated crank main seal leaking (or cam as well), wouldn't create a noticeable leak with wading plugs in. No, there is not much in that pic but you did say you recently cleaned it, and goosed seals in the turbo will merrily fill every single pipe connected to the...

Just worth a though, as if it is near totally dry under there then the amount being passed by the turbo is negligible (as it will have been collecting a good while by now)

2.5k seems fairly cheap for a 1990 90 that has a legitimate fresh ticket along with running and driving okay. Are there any pictures? That will help folks give you a better opinion, as at that price with the description given i'd just buy it and then worry about the welding and driveline issues...

What does the boost compensator on the top of the FIP look like? (take the cover off of course). The diaphragm should be lagged in oil if it has been passing vastly more than is acceptable