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Hi guys, I am running a stage 2 TD5inside setup with intercooler and EGR delete. Generally happy with it although I fancy getting more low end torque. The current setup behaves more like a petrol engine in my mind requiring revving to high RPM. I am accustomed to modern diesels whereby the...

Thanks for the helpful reply. It's very useful speaking to experienced land rover experts. So, I'm a big believer in the benefits of high flex for off road. Both in terms of improved traction and off road comfort. I also think long travel 4x4s without anti roll bars are just more enjoyable off...

I'm fairly confident my ACE is working correctly. Its definitely softer when in low range/CDL. However, when you compare it to defenders it still seems stiffer with more wheel lift etc. Am I right in assuming the ACE is active only on road in high range? I'm guessing the hydraulic ram becomes...

Also found this Australian company doing the same thing.

I like the ACE anti roll system and what it can do. However, when off road, the anti roll bar is way too stiff for good articulation/flex. Has anyone figured a way of reducing this stiffness? Or perhaps employed quick disconnects? I came across the "X Deflects" quick disconnecting anti roll bar...

How did you get on with the remedies? Just a case of lots of PU sealant?

I have dripping at the sun visor area. Would this likely be the sunroof or the gutter? Or even the windscreen?

So why does it seem to be such a problem area for discos? I has assumed there was some design fault that was hard to fix and make reliable hence the common practice of entirely sealing over the glass preventing opening. Both front an rear sunroof motors are working fine but of course cannot...

Does anyone have any advice on how much material to cut out in this case? If I make a small patch replacing only the rusted area would that be a missed opportunity to replace a large section of the dip for a long term fix?

I am a new disco2 owner and the sunroofs were sealed up by the previous owner. Can I ask the group if the general feeling is that it is indeed worth refurbishing and reinstating rather than just leaving sealed? How long does the repair last and what may be necessary to keep it fully functioning...

Just search on thingyverse

THe front end of discoverys are usually totally rot free. The constant supply of oil from leaky gaskets preserves the chassis beautifully. Oil, unlike lanoguard, seeps and creeps until eventually (given the supply is constant) everything gets coated. I think I'm going to use scrap oil method...

Isn't this the entry hole for the moisture? Seems like its an uphill battle if this is not closed up. You often see people pathing this corrosion area up without adding drain holes or closing off the end of the tube. If anything that will act as a renewed water retainer.

I am needing to tackle the corrosion on the rear chassis area. I realise its a very common area to rot out. But looking at the problem I cant help think that the cause is likely due to moisture settling internally in the low point in the chassis rail. With the open rear end of the rail tube...

Yes I am leaning towards dixon. What is the consensus on the quality? I like their rock sliders too.

Here's another bumper with good clearance. Its in the USA however.

Its this clearance angle I like. Are there other bumpers available that has this?

Oh. what was the brand?

Can anyone help me identify this winch bumper. I saw it on a UK youtube channel. I like it because it is really high clearance. I also like those yellow fog lights. Again any help with IDing this setup would be appreciated.