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Brilliant. I'll order from Island4x4. With the hubs does anyone know what the TAY100060G is vs the TAY100060? Price is double!?

Yes I did try fitting it to the shaft and it felt it was applying too little pressure to seal properly to me. For example it does not compare at all to an OEM main crankshaft seal. THe fact that it felt exactly the same as the seal I pulled out (installed by previous owner within the last two...

Its 35.5mm but that ID doesnt come into contact with anything.

I am trying to tackle a leaky front half shaft/axle seal. I can see all the previous posts about this well known trouble spot. The disco 2 I have had new front seals installed a year or two prior by the previous owner. I disassembled it today and can see the seal looks to be in new condition and...

Heres the view of the wheel well showing the bulkhead. It looks fairly good but some early signs of rust around the top edge. Note the black plastic bungs I have added to seal off the random holes. There's actually a remaining hole that I was wondering if it should be kept open for drainage?

That's a very neat job. Is that red oxide primer you used? I never know which id best. zinc etch or red oxide. Mine in the bulkhead area is sound with no rust. Jus the area behind the plastic liner near the abs pump. I'll take some more photos tomorrow. Another question: what is the best...

I have discovered a rusty patch behind the front wheel arch liner. The plastic liner is a terrible design that seems to trap dirt and rust behind the liner. My question is what should be done to remedy this? How can I stop the rust? Is it hard to replace the panel? Is there any long term fixes...

Very strange. The loom doesnt look like its been modified. Could it possibly be because with late model disco2 ES with ACE there was some electronic feature that needed the transmission ecu to enable?

The 9th alpha numeric digit on the VIN is a 7. So that confirms it was a manual from factory..........so why do I have a bosch transmission ecu?? Could it just be that it was standard fitment but just not utilised for a manual version??

Are there any other areas that need to be checked over for potential bodges? How can I tell for sure if this is a conversion?

THe switch seems like its factory....

The vehicle is in very good rust free condition. Hence why I bought it. What do you think could be the dodgy areas that I should look into?

I have a manual D2 2003. I was confused to find a transmission ECU under the passenger seat. Why on earth is there a transmission controller for a manual car? Could this be an automatic originally that has been converted?

Looks like you did a good job there. What thickness steel did you use? Was there anything you would have done differently?

Are the chassis rails tubes open internally along its full length such that I can pass a long oil spray tube along its length? I am planning to rust proof it internally.

The lubrication does not help. I am almost certain it relates to the handle/catch mechanism as it feels different to the other door handles. I will try and remove the handle next.

On of the rear passenger doors on my Disco2 is hard to open. The handle mechanism only releases if you pull violently. It feels like the latch does not move soon enough within the travel of the handle. Is there a way this can be adjusted?

The TD5inside stage 2 was done by the previous owner and seems fine for what it is. However, I'm a bit uncomfortable with their "remote" style of working and would prefer someone based in the UK who could be physically got hold of should there be an issue. WHat are people's experience with...

It has a 2.5inch Demmand straight through system. I'm not sure if that translates as big bore or not.

Its a manual. Don't get me wrong, its ok with the stage 2 and most would be very pleased with it. But for me I just not so interested at peak power. Torque at 1500rpm is much more important.