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I am about to paint my new galv chassis with corroless s then corroless rf, has anyone used it before and how much pain will I need?

Sorry I meant corroless s, I've found a couple of people using this combination of the primer and topcoat on land rover chassis which are galvanised on various forums

I'm picking up my new galvanised series 2 chassis from Richards on Tuesday. I'm going to t wash it and brush paint it in corroless Cs primer then rf16 top coat, they advised I don't need to etch prime after the t wash, not sure if that's correct? Can anyone advise

It was registered in october 1959 so it sounds like it should have the 2.25ltr petrol engine. I have 2 engines in the workshop, both 2.25d but one is a 3 bearing and the other is a 5 bearing engine. Now to decide which to fit

I have a 1959 series 2 landrover but when I have checked the chassis number it says it should be a petrol, what this have had a 2ltr or 2.25 in it? At the moment I'm thinking of returning it to original, would this affect the value once restored?

The engine Ive got at the moment has a says its a petrol block but its diesel

I've measured it across and it looks like it has been squeezed or may have hit something, do they normally ream them by hand or by machine?

That's exactly what I thort, have they nipped them in a vice to hold them, not sure how they bore the small ends out

I came to fit the conrod on the crankshaft after having the little ends reamed at a machine shop. I noticed number 3 conrod was tight and would not sit down fully on the journal and went tight, i tried the other conrods on the journal and it appears fine, I've even tried the bearing from the...

Definitely on the passenger side or right when looking at the vehicle so it's series 3 gearbox.

I've had a good look today and I think it may already have a series 3 box on it, the slave cylinder is on the right

I am about to order a new chassis but need to know What's the difference between a series 2 and a series 3 bellhousing so I can get the correct crossmember

I am about to order a new chassis but need to know What's the difference between a series 2 and a series 3 bellhousing so I can get the correct crossmember

In the end I pushed the bearings in and a machine shop teamed them out for £80

I'm assembling the engine and It says in the manual to tighten the crank main bearings to 130nm, is this lighty oiled bolts or dry?

What's the best way to put the little end Bush into the conrod? Oil then put in with hydrolic press. How's the best way to ream it? I was thinking adjustable reamer in the drill press so its square

Do you know if they need reaming once they have been pressed in?

Don't have the proper tool, was gonna use a drift to get it out, if it needs reaming after then might just give it to a machine shop

I stripped the head tonight, it looks like the valve guides need replacing, there a mix of old and new style guides in there, if I buy new guides from paddocks, will these need reaming afterwards? I do have a 10 tonne press so should be OK getting them out, anyone done this?

Do you have to ream the small end bearing after replacement or can you get the bearing already sized?