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The pegs threaded hole was not blind on mine, it is completely through the body of the peg but only threaded to within a few mm of the end. Obviously I do not know at what torque the pinion bolt was torqued to, but 95ft/lbs was an easy tightening tension with no need to use a flange fixing tool...

Now here's a question.What stops oil coming down the centralising peg 8mm removal hole, into the prop drive hole and onto the drive?

Well, the whole lot is out. I used part of a ball joint breaker kit to make up the centraliser peg extraction tool. A small length of high tensile 8mm rod double nutted right into the peg, tube over the top, a couple of hefty washers and a single nut made up the extractor. The secret is lots...

I'm doing it under the vehicle, on my back in the drive. Taking the diff out to do a simple pinion seal sounds a bit drastic to me. I am waitng for some high tensile threaded 8mm bar to arrive, already stripped an old 8mm coach bolt I found under the bench. I'm not holding my breath though...

Hi SS Thanks for the advice, sounds good. I have ordered some high tensile threaded 8mm rod plus new SS 8mm nuts and some penny washers. I have a suitable body to go ovr the centralising peg have cleaned off surface rust around the yoke body and peg and will apply more WD40 and heat before...

Yes the vehicle is up on stands in the drive now. Might try the old socket plus 8mm bolt with nut. I'll try and find some high tensile 8 x 50 or somethig like that. Bit of heat, wind in the bolt, tighten the nut, get the clump hammer going, wind a bit more on etc etc. If the bolt shears grind a...

Yep, I realise that, but bit desperate to get that damn flange centraliser out. Thought this would be a reasonable choice. Never mind back to the drawing board

Hello David, Got any left? I have to get that damn flange centraliser jobber out.

Hello again. My next job on my 2003 S2 is to replace the rear axle pinion oil seal. It's weeping and will only get worse, so my friendly MOT man told me Can't be difficult I thought, just drain the axle, drop the prop shaft, undo the pinion nut and Bobs your Uncle there's the seal. Prize the...

I think I have got to the bottom of this, having been talking to the techies at Denso. Firstly the DAN670 (ERR699) alternator is not a self exciting alternator. It works by an Initial Self Excitation Function, ie 12v from Ignition switch on Pin 2 of the rear connector. Denso state it will not...

The alternator has now been changed (again) and the vehicle is working as it should do. The fault was that the centre pin of the three way connector was incorrectly positioned at the manufacturing stage so partially disconnecting the 12v feed from F24 to the alternator. My assessment is that...

I think between us we'll sort this and I agree that the function of F24 is to take volts from the ECU and stop the engine. Agreed. So it leaves the question as to where the voltage sense come from, for without that the alternator would boil the battery. It can only come from FS24 or FS27? Cant...

Further investigation shows that F24 also feeds the ECU which would explain why the car wont start without it and at rest draws 150mA. Now if this feed to the alternator on the white wire was open circuit (via the faulty alternator connector pins) then, and I am guessing here, the alternator...

The plot thickens...… Firstly removal of fuse 24 and the vehicle will not start, turns over but will not start. Take fuse 24 out when the vehicle is running and the engine stops. So why is that happening when This feed protects the alternator/generator from short circuit damage should a wiring...

Hi Roy, Thanks for the information. I decided not to wait, and ripped the damn thing out, I had done it a month or two back and it should be a lot quicker this time. Sure enough I got the unit out, connected a battery up, turned the ignition in and measure down at the centre pin (white/green)...

40 miles ago I fitted a replacement alternator, the RollCom ALT336 from Advanced Factors. After a bitch of a job I got her in and all was fine for 40 miles, now the charging (battery) light does not go out. Its on all the time when the ignition is on. Sure enough without the battery connected...

OK sounds a good target. House runs around 50-60%. Just need to save up for one now.

Jezz, I'll never get away with that, even the dog won't stop with me in the garage. I'll mention it to her though...…….

I guess a question we need to understand is what is an acceptable humidity level for a workshop/garage containing vehicles and tools? Too high, bare metal rusts, too low and certain materials (such as leather) dry out and decompose. I think 60% would be a figure to aim for, but what do I know?

Yes I appreciate that. I will have to look for a second hand one then.....