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As for the desiccant, open the dryer, spread the material out on an oven tray, put into the oven, 100c for an hour to 90 mins, reuse. Do not under any circumstances put in a microwave, it will explode.

Les gave up on eBay as too may people would bid on stuff and then not pay. He had a rant about, said no more and hasn’t been back as far as I know.

If this link works, here is a copy of the workshop manual.

The BECM is basically nothing to do with the issues you have, with the exception of the windows. The windows require re-setting if you disconnect the battery. Simply hold the button to lower the window all the way, then hold it to wind it up all the way, pausing, finger on the button for a...

Talk to Les at Classic Rides North Wales. He is a genius on this stuff and is able to supply new key fobs from scratch. I have used him a couple of times, amd that from the other side of the world. Quick, friendly, always happy to chat, and better still, knows his stuff and will sort you out.

It’ll certainly be BSP, grab a couple of brass plugs from a plumbing store.

With regard to the radiator, check the top tank. It should have a baffle half way along it. The diesel cooling system is a pretty poor design. The water goes in on one side, down half the radiator, back up again and out. If the replacement didn’t have a baffle in the top tank, then most of the...

It depends where you live. Here in Australia, unless you have been using your classic/disco etc for putting the boat in and out every weekend, then rust won't really be an issue, so the need for welding skills diminishes. A LR specialist Indie who does some work for me from time to time (jobs...

Service repair no - 70.25.02 Equipment: Bleed tube and a clean bottle containing a small amount of clean brake fluid. CAUTION: Thoroughly clean all bleed screws, filler cap and connections using only clean brake fluid. DO NOT USE MINERAL OIL I.E. ENGINE OIL ETC. MAINTAIN CLEANLINESS...

If you sensor is in the LH air intake, it is common to see a much higher temp on the HEVAC than it actually is. The reason is airflow. Living in OZ it is not unusual to see the temp at over 40 degrees if I have the HEVAC off. Turn it on, drawing in outside air, and the temp displayed quickly...

It should be in the LH heater intake. If you take out the pollen filter you should see it poking into the vent.

Also if the sensor circuit is open, i.e. you have broken a wire or got a dodgy connection, then it will read -40 as well.

As above, but the best to use if brake parts cleaner. DO NOT use any form of wet lubricant (like WD40), graphite only. If the car thinks the key is still in the ignition, then it won’t allow the fob to lock the doors, so that may be your only problem. Sort out the barrel with a bit of cleaner...

Not on a V8.

You will find that the culprit is one of two things. Either it is a leak around or from the oil pressure switch, or the O ring sealing the Welch plug holding the oil pressure relief spring in on the side of the oil pump is about gone. When either fails the oil loss becomes pretty spectacular...

+1 on the above. If you can identify it, just replace it. If you can’t, replace all 16. Make sure it is a lifter and not a damaged rocker, which can give you a similar sound.

Actually the front of the binnacle, LHS under the fuel gauge.

Coils will have nothing to do with the issue.

Most have it on the slam panel. Photo?

The cam sensor should not have a discernable effect on the engine running. RAVE notes that it may lead to the fuel injection being 180 degrees out of phase but that it is difficult for the operator to notice any difference in vehicle operation. Mine had a dud cam sensor for 12 months before I...