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so.. if i find a freebie with a goosed auto box - i'm on for a winner?? Fantastic....

Am I correct to assume (yes mother of all f*** ups) that an Auto connected engine would suffer less crankshaft thrust bearing damage due to the lack of pressure being applied during gear changes??? e.g. - press clutch pedal down.... bearing pushes entire clutch assembly and crankshaft towards...

LRRON, then the wiper is turned off, does it stop where you turned it off, or does it continue for a while and end up anywhere? If it stops where you turned off the power, it may be worth while having someone turn off the power as you are applying a little pressure to the arm to return it...

Bump..... Again!

Hi Dave, I take onboard all of your comments and I'm looking to two two things. 1) Rebuild the engine with the minimal amount of items possible 2) Source a TD4 Write-Off or a TD4 with a knackered Tranny. If i source a knackered AUTO TD4, surely the level of endfloat SHOULD be much lower than...

Ed... would that cause crankshaft end float though??

Thanks, Found this on Britishparts PCH001210G

I do agree... but.... It is a keeper.... I know that there shouldn't be any sentiment in cars.... but this one, is quite sentimental. I'm not scared of doing the job personally, and today, I've stripped it down. Found a fantastic clean unworn crankshaft. - but No4. thrust shell has worn down on...

HI, Can anyone provide the part number (and preferably a cheaper supplier than LR) for the Coolant hose between the IRD Cooler and the Heater Matrix Please.. Pre Facelift Model - 2003 TD4 Freelander Yes... the foil covered hose :-) Thanks, Wayne

Hi Guys, Stupid question... but. My TD4 has quite a bit of end float (horizontal) - on the crank shaft. Is this a full "Crank" out job and re-shelling of the big ends etc. or.. is there something simple I'm missing... for example.. if some idiot had fitted the crankshaft pulley incorrectly...

Sorry to Butt in at the end of a thread, but I have a td4 with a dodgy pedal. I do ALL of the work myself and last night I measured 0.75mm of horizontal crankshaft float. I wondered what the garage ACTUALLY fitted to reduce the float in yours... I've had the engine and box out two times already...

Just bought a brand new LUK part from EuroCarparts for less than 55 quid....

A sad sad fortnight :-( - Dad passed away before I got his Freelander 1 running.

If I'm going to ask a question, I need to follow the bl00dy advice :-( Although I ordered an LUK part, it wasnt in stock... so I went for an OEM part..... fitted the engine and box.. started it up... and crunch..... unable to get fisrt gear without it crunching. i thought - oh... I will bleed it...

erm...... the rubber hose n the "air" side of the turbo.... should it have a jubilee clip on it??? - you know the one.... when the pipe isnt fitted properly - you get black smoke, no revs... almost a MAF sensor fault - :-(

Righty-ho. I fitted a bosch sensor (brand new - out of the box) - and then decided to pull the engine and make sure all was fastened up properly.... Please... before asking why - please read my profile - it's a car that my dad wanted to see running again, but on the 8th of October, he lost his...

Can't help with the air con. but the green (REVERSE) wires on the GETRAG box connect above the NS CV Joint. (on the Other box, I assume the green wires are fixed to the switch, and need connecting to the terminals behind the ECU on the inner wing. the front gearbox connectors connectors are for...

Maybe I should look at selling the kit and buying the FL1 face-lift items. (bumpers, lights, light grilles, ANGLE GRINDER to get it to fit and a big hammer too!)

To be honest, the car this one came off had been stripped a long time ago. it beats me how these kits used to be over 500quid, and now are like gold dust to get hold of. anyway.... each and everyone's opinion is welcome... but for some reason, I think (THINK) I like it better than plain ol'...