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I am not sure which section of the exhaust they would have extended for the 130. My 110 resonator had a hole when I got the landy, so I cut it out and MIG welded in a piece of exhaust pipe. If you need any measurements to confirm, I can measure my center section and let you know. . .

If they were to fail that easily, Land Rover would have been shipping these out daily. There are guys here who have rally discos and defenders which they race every season...their center diffs would have all been dead by now.

Any conductor can fail due to corrosion, water ingress fractures etc..so to tell you if yours failed or what caused it will be a shot in the dark. Best thing is to do electrical tests on it, tracing it from where it has power to the connectors individually.

I guess if the center diff lock welds itself so easily when disengaged in slippery conditions, its better to use it when in slippery conditions. Would be a win win situation, you get better traction and no center diff welding.

The vidoe I posted above covers so much.... plus more, covers everything and gave tons of off roading guidelines and tips. The beauty is, all of a done by defenders and discos mostly.

I was asking about it being engaged and this happening.

Makes sense now lol. There are tons of info and toturials online...google it. Cheers.

How can one output shaft go faster than the other when the diff lock purpose is to send same direct torque and same rotational speeds to the 4 wheels...unless I am missing something regarding front and rear diff ratios.

Why would you go from 300 to 200? I have seen write ups on 200 to 300 which is most common, that might give you some info like this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/300tdi-in-a-200tdi.172017/

Here is probably the best educational, tutorial, entertaining and informative series of vidoes ever regarding the defender and disco off road driving. I looked at all of them and must say it's the best I have seen so far...does not get better than this. You understand how the Landy's are built...

After doing some research, I bought this one...... These are programmable and has the same numbering style like the speedo. The full scale being 4k rpm, will discourage you from reving more than that as opposed to a 6k and the 4k will be more accurate to read. I am picky, but accepted the fact...

It's a fresh rebore + 40 thou, new pistons, rings, bearings, complete head job etc...and I use an expensive anti rust lube lol Lucas oil stabilizer..works well during engine rebuilding. Just want it to be a perfect engine that will last a good couple of years. .

James, never seeing this before and being a perfectionist with engine building and stuff like this, it's bugging me. I am concerned with sealing and if it will continue to rust since the engine will probably be sitting on the stand for another month or two. Worried about it rusting the block...

Well after all the time I made to install the head, I am so ****ed. I cleaned the head with carb cleaner and a slight go over with 800 grit sand paper then air dry it. I chased every head bolt hole on the block, measured each for depth, cleaned and air dry them. I then cleaned and vacuumed the...

Good to know. I had a 200TDI CSW with a bonnet mounted spare, I decided to weigh the standard wheel and was amazed to see it weighed 75 lbs. The striker spring seems weak on my 300 TDI, so I might still do this mod.

DC to DC converters been around for a long time and I have built one as part of my electronic tech program in the mid 80ies. There are different brands and qualities, current ratings etc. Because you had issues with the one you listed does not mean that the idea bad, just get a good quality...

Was heading to the bottom of the thread to suggest the same when I saw your post. There are cheaper ones than those made by Motorola and they work well...can handle up to 20 amps..cant remember the model #

Would be easier if you post a pic of the light/brackets and where you wanted it mounted...that part of the rack.

Hi James, I will pull the 40Nm twice to ensure that they got the full 40Nm torque, I normally let the first pull sit for half hour or so and then pull them again. The bolts do have specific lengths, I can measure them, but I wonder what the cut off tolerance will be, if its exact and how...

Hi Taylonm, thanks for the reply. Why are you pulling off the head a second time? The head gasket I have is the 0 hole 1.69mm thick, the thickest one. How much boost are you running? I will be running a VGT/VNT so wanted to make a tighter seal for added boost. Happy yours running well so far...