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You don't have to follow Alan. I still see your avatar comment- 'Still Breathing'.......:cool:

To improve water circulation at idle, may be we can consider this . BOSCH 0392020034 Universal Auxiliary Additional electric pump for car 12 volts. Heater core out put line is a good candidate, wired with the thermostat of 95C ON & 87C OFF. This one which I have already bought, is a direct...

You are pushing me to open that pump , again. Anyway, we better give OP a chance.

Tomcat55.. I suggest that you read the last line.;) I changed the ITP after 3 months or so, not an easy job having to drop the fuel tank. Also, never had a can of diesel strapped to the roof.:p:p My point is that you don't need an ITP to start a diesel P38 or any other diesel car (except CRD) ...

Fill up new filter with diesel and fit it. Fit a piece of clear tubing to filter input line.(there is a joint in my car in that line)Fix the other end to a 5 ltr diesel can and hang it above the level of the filter. Loosen the filter to inj pump line at the inj pump and allow diesel to flow then...

That's what I was telling in a different way. The ITP has no NRV, in my case. And that 'sufficient fuel in the tank..' is not necessarily required. I have started & ran mine even when the 'low fuel' warning light 'ON'. Also, that 'FIP timed correctly........' is not valid with my car. It's...

That 's for use after reaching 70-80 KMPH.

YES, If the filter o-rings are bad enough to let air in then those need replacing first. In tank pump & crank sensor/wiring harness are a waste of time. In tank pump is not required to start the engine, at all.

It's not the in-tank pump. I 've run my car for more than 3 months with a dead in-tank pump. You need to crank 5-6 times to get it started when cold and when going above 80 , you will feel that it's not pulling as usual. Also, I have started my car with Crank sensor disconnected but the engine...

Then the car would have gone to the scrapper about 6 years ago.;);)

Here is a picture..........

Freelander TD4 uses the same kit- the fan & the Alternator (150A).

How reliable are these? could be Chinese.......

Mark, it's straight bladed. It's noisy just like the standard VC fan. Go for a curved bladed one . Generally, higher the wattage higher the CFM.

Get the engine too.:D:D I have read, somewhere in early 1950s ROVER had a jet engined car called "JET 1".:cool:

Yes it will have a separate relay about 40A & will switch on via thermo switch. Do you have any info about the total requirement in Watts when everything switched on?

I'm anxious to see how you increase the Alternator output.:D

Try a BMW 320/520 D 's 400W or MERCEDES 600W one. I'm trying the BMW one but little scared whether the alternator (VALEO 105A) can handle it. Remember, there are pushers & pullers, depending on the location- prior to /after radiator

No. Anything to adjust there?

LOL. :cool::cool::p:p Didn't do anything. Just put everything back as it was & running as usual. (Inj pump pushed fully towards the engine.) Strangely, with new voltage regulator the battery is getting around 14.2 +, always. It has made the EAS happy- comes up fast & the AC is colder. When hot...