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Can you take some photos of the engine mounts on the chassis, rear cross member where its welded to the chassis and a few general chassis pics to see if its a tdi front end stuck onto a td5 rear. If you can satisfy yourself that its not a cut up job then I'd probably live with it.

I think the number is a genuine one, the question is really does it belong where it is. Has a section been cut out and re-welded? To my mind its a very clever ringer job, the rest looks td5 but could have a mish mash of other bits as well. I'd like to get under it and have a nosey.

I think he would have to swap it back cos its misrepresented and he probably knew that.

Just googled that and there seems to be a great variety, some obviously faked but still several fonts. On that photo there is a dark shadow over the number I would give it a good clean and look for grinder marks.

The odo is digital though so later. Edit.....Lol too late

Also pics of the chassis generally would be useful. i.e has the rear crossmember been replaced? I had a couple of 1991 tdi's and they both had chassis repairs and/or replacement outriggers.

At the moment you couldn't talk to the dvla even if you wanted to they're still not working. Tbh I wouldn't be in a hurry to confess anything to anybody........give us a pic of the dumb iron, as much as possible. You can blank out the chassis number but would be interesting to see if its either...

By the way does the fuel gauge work ok, if not the stabilizer is probably faulty.

Well mine doesn't seem to get above about 75deg anywhere except the exhaust manifold.

Did the gauge work correctly before you rewired bits of it?

I am having a lot of trouble getting my gauge to stop shooting straight to the red.......its not overheating it seems the sender and gauge are not compatable. But mine has an engine change. If you're worried about overheating get one of those cheap infra red themp. guns off tinternet and check...

I just meant not from a 12v supply from the battery, the stabilizer lowers the voltage a bit so the gauge reads accurately.

Make sure the temp gauge is powered from the voltage stabilizer and not direct from the loom.

Disconnect the fan belt and run it. See if the noise stops

Its got the fittings on it to hook onto the sharks tooth bar. Anyway I don't think the seller knows what it is if he thinks the side window is actually the rear one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2-109-CANVAS-ROOF-WITH-BARS-ORIGINAL-M-O-D/164219719554?hash=item263c420f82:g:ZP0AAOSwufFezQHa&LH_Auction=1 Saw this and wondered what its from, its described as series 2 109 truck cab but looks nowhere near long enough and has the overcab piece on it...

Its a landrover if you want to got rid of the rattles and bangs get a Toyota.

Trial and error I had the same problem with a couple of mine.

Its the same shape as the pump body where it fits onto the engine. It should be about 1/4 inch thick if its the one I'm talking about. It should have been in the box with the pump.

Will look good once you get the Chesterfield put in.