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Get a flat bar with a threaded hole in the centre, put either end through the top and bottom of the steering wheel. Thread a bolt through the hole and tighten it down onto the shaft. If that doesn't pop it off then just give up and burn it

After seeing the types of people that are buying them (daft young lassies that you'd usually see cutting about in range rovers) I think I'll steer clear. I did like them initially but not now and I'd rather hold out for a Grenadier

Hold the wheel at the 12 and 6 positions and rock it towards and away from you while pulling. That's how I've always done it and I've never had an issue getting them off

It's not the rear crossmember, it's the crossmember that the A frame bolts onto.

As far as I remember it's just got the one seal along the outside, it pushes down onto the metal edge of the door along the window

Passed its MOT with flying colours, not even an advisory

Easiest way would be to try and drill out the old nut and just stick a rivut in its place

Which engine? Mine goes behind the engine to the left, along by the battery box then there's a clip by the transfer box. Realistically though just cable tie it up and it'll be fine

Anyone looking to get rid of the above? The missus wants one as a project car so ideally cheap or free but I don't want a ****box that's going to take decades of welding to get up to scratch

Drop the gearbox and transfer box out as is and leave the engine in. I wouldn't support it on the sump as that's only thin metal but you could hook an engine lift up to it just to take the weight a little and stop it tilting

I got one off my mate so I'll be giving it a go tonight but it's definitely a very useful kit to have

Well I had hoped there was enough meat to rethread but I don't think there was. Broke down on the way somewhere as the stud pretty much worked its way out but I sorted it and it got me there and back although I think a Helicoil kit will need to be acquired to fix it properly

I've cleared the epoxy out and removed the rocker assembly and retapped it. It seems OK so I've stuck the stud back in with some thread lock and I'll leave it for bit. Hopefully that'll sort it

One of the studs that holds down the rocker assembly has stripped the thread inside the cylinder head. As a result I get a really irritating ticking when I'm driving that's relative to speed and revs. Any ideas on how I can repair it? I can't even thread the stud back in as the original thread...

They're either J nuts or captive nuts and not too difficult to replace. If you mean where I think you mean though then I wouldn't worry too much about them, I've seen plenty Defenders without screws in there

My guess is that you've had that lodged somewhere on your chassis for years and the shock pin shearing has just knocked it loose

As far as I remember the 90 had a small valve system of sorts built into the brake lines near the front of the vehicle, something to do with accounting for the short distance between the servo/MC and the rear brakes. I don't know if the 110 kit would affect this or not

I had a disc braked rover axle on the back of my 1987 90, I think someone had fitted it off a disco. You don't need disc backing plates BTW and you're better off without them, they're a pain in the arse

Wheels need balanced, bearings need tightened/replaced, hub needing rebuilt, tracking out? Could be any one of those. I had a vibration and wobble when I was doing 50 plus. Rebuilt the left hub and its completely gone (the right is also on my list of jobs to do)

Throw in a Snickers and you've got yourself a deal